Trouble with rear gears

[roubaixtuesday]

Yep of the right shifter, i checked the other one too, its the same.

Mech is RD4700 GS
the guy in the shop said it was the same pull as the 5701 they didnt have in stock, but to be honest they are utterly useless in there so im not taking his word

4700 RD is NOT compatible with 5700 shifters, apparently...

Exception is Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed road RD – it has the same shift ratio as Shimano road 11 speed RDs, so it will work only with Tiagra 4700 shifters and Shimano 11 speed road shifters.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1278/bicycle-rear-derailleur-compatibility/

 

[gazza81]

Thanks, I'll take it back tomorrow!

I wont be using evans after the last couple times ive been there I'll just have to order the 5701 online

 

[gazza81]

The other thing i was thinking about is the cable routing, is there a image online that anyone knows of to show the best route?

If hes bodged the gears this much im not very confident in tje routing and dont want to copy whats already there, would rather check first if possible

 

[Smokin Joe]

The cable routing looks ok, it must be a compatibility issue.

 

[Ajax Bay]

12 pages !!!!
A lesson one could identify is:
After buying a new (used) bike, do an inventory of the many parts: dimensions (OD) of seat tube (for FD clamp), seat post, derailleur and STI/Ergo models (numbers), steerer tube OD, [ETA: headset make/type (and markings on bearings)], cassette range (eg 11-28), crankset type, BB type, chainrings tooth count, and check compatibility of STI/FD/RD, especially if they don't seem to work normally.
Before buying a bike, ride it, in all gear combos, check the seat post moves (when loosened), check the brakes work and that both wheels are reasonably true and rotate with clearance and spin and spin.

 

[boydj]

I started yesterday to replace a damaged 105 10-speed rear mech. After swapping in a new cassette and chain, I finally got round to fitting a mech that I had in the parts bin this morning. I had exactly the same problem with the shifting not quite working properly. On checking I found the mech was 5800 - i.e. 11-speed, so I popped down to the lbs and was fortunate that they had a 5701 in stock. Fitted this mech and pretty soon everything was working sweetly again.

 

[gazza81]

I started yesterday to replace a damaged 105 10-speed rear mech. After swapping in a new cassette and chain, I finally got round to fitting a mech that I had in the parts bin this morning. I had exactly the same problem with the shifting not quite working properly. On checking I found the mech was 5800 - i.e. 11-speed, so I popped down to the lbs and was fortunate that they had a 5701 in stock. Fitted this mech and pretty soon everything was working sweetly again.

Sounds like exactly the same issue im having!
Good to know the 5701 sorted it!

 

[gazza81]

As I can't do anything now until the mech arrives probably in a week or so no and I've got no kids in the house for a couple of hours!!
I'm literally stripping the bike down taking The Cranks off the brakes off the fork off greasing everything cleaning it all!

Need new headset barings as ypu can feel the rust in them!

Whats the best type of grease to use on the cranks?
Its a hollowtech type, ive got some thick white grease, white lithium or gt85

 

[gazza81]

Gears sorted! Finally!

Well best as i can get them anyway, they are not as smooth as id like but its rideable!
This bike has cost me a small fortune!
New chain
New cassette
New mech
New bar tape
New headset bearings
New inner/outer gear/brake cables
Soon new tyres!

Thank you everyone for your help! I've really learnt alot from this!

Mainly not to buy sh*t bikes haha

 

[Smokin Joe]

View attachment 502128


This bike has cost me a small fortune!

They all do. It's how cycling works.

 

[Gunk]

That chain looks too long, how was it set up?

 

[gazza81]

That chain looks too long, how was it set up?

You know what i did think it looked long myself

I used the calculator posted in this thread, think it was 57inch if i remember right

Maybe i measured chain stay wrong, i went from centre of bb to rear mech bolt along the frame

 

[screenman]

That chain looks too long, how was it set up?

I thought that and it is on small and small.

 

[gazza81]

Yeah small and small but only because i was adjusting the front gears and just how it got left

Ive just shortened it a couple links down to 55inch

 

[Ajax Bay]

Well done @gazza81

That chain looks too long, how was it set up?

Sorry - don't agree. With the chain in small/small the RD is wrapping it up and the idler run of the chain is about a centimetre from the chain on the guide jockey wheel. This is exactly how Campagnolo specify their chains to be set up (the OP's chain is for Shimano but the method can be read across), and provided riders don't try to fit chainrings or cassettes 'out of spec' with regards to RD capacity, then it'll be fine large/large too. See the discussion on this thread: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/weird-behaviour-campagnolo-potenza.256306/page-2
specifically:

. . . basic set-up checks, using Campag's spec.
We'll assume the rear hanger is to spec and not marginal in a way that might work OK on a brand new system but become a problem with wear and tear on the chain / cassette. Very few hangers in the market are problematic like that (though there are one or two).
Small ring to small sprocket - what is the space between the idler run of chain and the run of chain that passes around the "bottom" of the upper jockey wheel. It should be 8-15mm ideally, although 5 - 20mm is "unofficially" workable.

Graeme makes the point later that this is an easily measurable distance (unlike large/large plus a link (one inch)).