Put the chain in small-small (to free up as much chain as possible), put the magic link in the bottom run, pull a few links either side of the opening link together (pulling against the jockey wheels springiness), hold that with one hand and squeeze diagonally across the magic link with the other hand (or with grips, ideally perpendicular-faced, in the other hand) and it opens. Or others do it by kinking the chain up on the chainring and pushing it (I think ex-CTC Chris Juden described that method somewhere). I struggle to think WTF you were trying to do with brake cable but I'm glad you like the pliers.
Ah, a Fawlty method!
I use 'slip grips' to tweak mine apart.
Let me get this straight, a generic single mediocre tool that is designed to do all jobs is better than a tool that does a specific job perfectly?I never understand people wasting their money filling their sheds with unitaskers when ordinary tools do the job better.
1 housepoint for you
I never understand people wasting their money filling their sheds with unitaskers when ordinary tools do the job better.
One thing I like about getting the right removal tools is that you often still get to grip them in a wrench and hit them with a big hammer. A win all round.Fortunately also ordered a lockring removal tool at the same time, otherwise following the advice above I would have tried an orbital sander, hammer, feeler gauge, etc.
You seem to have overlooked the "when ordinary tools do the job better" (like bpsmith overlooked that it was tools plural). As for the previous case, let's talk again after you've broken the small pliers on a sticky link that bigger grips will open.New cassette.
Fortunately also ordered a lockring removal tool at the same time, otherwise following the advice above I would have tried an orbital sander, hammer, feeler gauge, etc.
Ah but some people buy the wrong removal tools with painful puny handles permanently attached instead of ones that are used with a wrench.
