What Have You Fettled Today?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Was riding one of the clunkers on Saturday nailed the brakes on a big hill and suddenly lost braking released and grabbed the brake again and it bit but was all grindy. Wasn't as exciting as it sounds.

Swapped the pads today looks like it shed the friction material.
 
Last edited:

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
Fitted decals, brakes, mudguards and a rear rack light to the Moulton "Speed" (which is actually a series 1 Standard with alloy worky bits and dropped bars - I have a genuine Speed in the loft pending a proper resto). Just needs cables, chain and bar tape now. The FW rear hub has been kicking around for 11 years. It's immaculate and I hope it works. The Standard was an early BoA bike, so 3-speed only.
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
A number of bits over the past few days;

I swapped the crankset on son no. 2's Argon TT bike, which we put to 52/36 for his national championships, back to the 53/39 one originally on it, together with swapping the rear cassette from 14/28 to 11/28 for TT'ing next year. The crankset was 'borrowed' from his Boardman, so ...

Son no. 2's winter Boardman Airpro has had more work after we realised it was in a worse state than thought. Following a new bottom bracket, new Absolute Black winter chainrings and the crankset going back on which we 'borrowed' it's had a new chain and new rear jockey wheel plus adjustments.

The Harry Quinn I bought last month has got a seatpost that fits plus a cleaned saddle from a large box of donated bits I was given. I've still to change the chain, which will depend upon whether the chainrings (86bcd?) are changed. The rear brake doesn't work which appears to be the way it's routed; that'll be looked at next. Then I've to decide what to do with both the crankset and the high stem; I'd like to change that for something lower.

My Raleigh SP Race was squeaking, so it's been re-greased and has had winter wheels put on.

Son no. 2's BeOne has had winter aluminium wheels with different brake pads rather than carbon wheels/pads.

The pedals on my winter commuter/cross Avanti Circa were squeaking, so they've been lubricated and it's been checked over.
 
Last edited:
I took my existing mudguards off as they were too narrow and fitted some new ones which I thought would work with wider tyres.

Epic fail, too thick under the rim brake, i couldn’t seat the rear wheel in the dropouts. Rear Mudguard back off and then proceed to do the same on the front.
My Wiggins Rouen is now without mudguards but has 700x32c tyres fitted for winter.
 

Rickshaw Phil

Overconfidentii Vulgaris
Moderator
I have some new wheels for the Raleigh and got round to fitting them at the weekend. I'd already stripped and regreased the bearings some days ago (they are new-old-stock so fresh grease in the hubs was a good move) and fitted rim tape so it should have been a simple case of swapping cassette, tyres and tubes and putting on new brake blocks.

In practice, the cassette swap was fine, the front tube and tyre went on fine but on fitting the rear I noticed that the tyre had two bulges in so was scrap.:sad: As a temporary measure I brought out an old tyre to fit onto the back but then the valve came off the tube just after i'd inflated it.:rolleyes: I decided to replace both tubes so it all came apart again. Fitted and adjusted the new brake blocks - simple, but it always takes me a while to get them just so.

Having that well worn tyre on the back of a new wheelset irked me a bit. A browse online showed that my favourite local bike shop has Vittoria Revolution Tech tyres in stock (which is one I'd already been thinking of trying) in a matching size, so I dashed down to get one before closing time. The back wheel therefore got taken off again to do the swap.

Vittoria make a big claim about this tyre being faster rolling than a slick. I don't know if I'll notice a difference there with just having the one on the back but what I did notice on the test ride is that it feels smoother over the rough roads than the Marathon it replaced.
 

Svendo

Guru
Location
Walsden
Fettled a proper bodge today. Last week on the nice bike I noticed a bit of a slow shift, looked down and saw the 19 cog was ‘floating’ between the 17 and 21. It would still shift on and off, but a bit rough, credit to Shimano engineering (DA 9000).
It’s the DA cassette that came with the groupset, so I was a bit miffed and although I have an Ultegra spare I want full value from it.
Found that it’s the middle cog of a group of 3, and the heads of all 4 pins have sheared 3 inboard and one outboard, all obscured by the 17 cog so can’t directly replace the pins with something.
8DA53974-4171-4587-AA51-7ABAE2DFC4A0.jpeg

So need to put a spacer between the 19 and 17 cog to hold it against the carrier.
Of course I used zip ties, sanded down from 2.54 ish mm to 2.15ish (spacers officially 2.18)
Three in place, (4th pin wouldn’t move out of the way) carefully orientated to avoid fouling the chain (I hope). And Robert is my Mother’s Brother 😎
618045 618046
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
After my last ride I noticed that one of the pads in the rear caliper was rubbing the disc, so sorted that out today. Also greased the seat post, which was doing a right racket at times, and now it is quiet, and pumped up the tyres.
 

Fredo76

Über Member
Location
Española, NM
Replaced a dinged Mavic MA40 clincher rim with a new Mavic Open Elite, finally.

618936

After having put maybe 100 miles on my 35 year-old Specialized Turbo R tires, I'm hesitating to replace them needlessly, but another thread on here suggests I need to, alright...
 
Top Bottom