What old cycling technology don't you ever want to see again?

[Ming the Merciless]

Giant hydraulic disc brake systems. Over heated in a nano second, and set fire to many a forestry plantation.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

White or cream tyres. Just no!

 

[Lovacott]

Screw-on free wheels. Alright until you want to remove it.

Very easy if you have a bench vice.

 

[tyred]

When I got my 1st bike with square taper cranks, my dad couldn't see why the didn't stick with cotter pins
He never saw the problem with them. Hammering them out and making the threads unusable could be fixed by recutting the thread.

I have several bikes with cotter pins which I use regularly. If they're put together properly there is never any trouble with them.

Once upon a time, bikes had oil or grease ports on the bottom bracket shell so it wasn't necessary to strip it for lubrication purposes.

 

[Drago]

Rapid rise.

Girvin Flexstems.

Elevated stays.

Cannondale headshocks.

Cannondale bikes.

Marin PTFE paint finishes.

Dreadful Proflex full squidge mountain bikes.

Hydraulic rim brakes.

Saddles with that gap in the middle just big enough to act like nutcrackers.

Oval chainrings, Biopace or otherwise.

Grifters.

Gas pipe.

Raleigh integrated kick stands.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Split seat tubes

 

[Ming the Merciless]

23mm tyres

 

[Drago]

Wooden wheel rims.

 

[Profpointy]

Screw-on free wheels. Alright until you want to remove it.

I must admit I never had any problem, not that I've done it more than a few times. Pop the spline tool in, big spanner on it and bob's your uncle

 

[Profpointy]

When I got my 1st bike with square taper cranks, my dad couldn't see why the didn't stick with cotter pins
He never saw the problem with them. Hammering them out and making the threads unusable could be fixed by recutting the thread.

When you say "threads" which bit are you talking about. A long long time since I've done anything witth cotter pins but can't remember threads

 

[Profpointy]

Petzl head torches.

I was about to ask what's wrong with them; we use them a lot, then realised you probably meant the old "zoom" with the 4.5 volt flat battery. Still, they were better than anything else at the time, particularly once you'd put a halogen bulb in, and vastly better than ever ready bike lights, which often wouldn't work at all, even if the old Zooms seem ropey now. I even used those caving on occasion when I didn't have a proper light for some reason

 

[Drago]

Bottle dynamos.

 

[Profpointy]

The thread in the pin that the nut screws onto. If you remove the nut before bashing it with a hammer then you can bugger them up. If you leave the nut on you can protect them, and clean up any damage when you remove the nut.

Ah yes, I remember now. Leaving the nut on before bashing was the trick. Presumably replacing the pins if old or rusty as a policy would be sensible, as, for example, you do with the pins on car disc brake pads

 

[GuyBoden]

Screw-on free wheels. Alright until you want to remove it.

Just put removal tool in vice and turn wheel. Plenty of leverage and good rubber grip if tyre left on.

Works well.......if you can find the correct removal tool to fit.[/QUOTE]

 

[GuyBoden]

Bottle dynamos.

But, they excelled in wearing out tyre sidewalls.