What's so great about presta valves?

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£49 for valves.......
They're not £24.50 for each valve; that's for a pair .... I concur that they're expensive, even at £24.50 a pair, however. And I think the Reserve Fillmore ones are something like £40 a pair. Then again, £24.50 is not an awful lot more than plenty of other tubeless valve options.
My issue with presta is that they end up too tight to open.
Whereas the Project 76 ones don't do that (and I've certainly had Presta ones do so). Also, they're robust and very pretty .....
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
£24.50 [for a pair] is not an awful lot more than plenty of other tubeless valve options.
Whereas the Project 76 ones [are never to tight to open] (and I've certainly had Presta ones do so). Also, they're robust and very pretty .....
There's a professional going to be racing on Project 76s next year, on the basis of your recommendation, validated by trial.
DT Swiss ARC 1100 DICUT disc 62 mm rim tubeless shod with Vittoria Corsa Speed G+ 2.0 (TLR) with Vittoria-air-liner-tyre-inserts and Project 76 valves. The aesthetic benefit swung it, I reckon (magenta). That, the advantage of less sealant build up in the valve, and the challenge of getting the beads to pop with the inserts in. [Though the valves will have to be bought.]
 
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classic33

Leg End Member
But the point the OP is making is that Schrader valves are, for the user, even less complicated.
Schrader valves cause more drag and are length for length, heavier (edit) and increased wheel imbalance (citation).
As well as needing a hole 1mm greater in diameter in the rim, the interface on the tube is larger too. This results in yet more weight.
Schrader innards (for @chriswoody) You can get some caps that have a removal tool 'built in'.
View attachment 669809

View attachment 669825
Two schrader valve cores, with two more sizes between them.
IMG_20221202_221752.jpg
 

classic33

Leg End Member
You make it sound so easy! In my experience it's anything but.

Err, no it isn't! I can easily press a Presta valve with my tongue. With Schrader, you're at the mercy of manufacturing tolerances, as I've had some where the valve core is slightly deeper in the stem.

I'd say the difficulty ranges from really fiddly to completely impossible without something pointy.
It's easy enough, presta or Schrader valve. Woods are another thing though.

Practice on a few stone of innertubes, then see which is easier.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
I find it odd that people find Prestas "fragile". I'm completely ham-fisted and I've never damaged one. I wonder how many people actually have? They're completely robust. I've never damaged a schrader either and plenty of both have passed through my mechanically incompetent hands.

It's testament to the disputatious nature of Cyclechat that this thread has revealed that there actually is an anti-Presta movement of people with strong opinions about valves. There doesn't seem to be a balancing anti-Schrader swell of opinion, which is disappointing. But give it time.

Coming soon - a furious row about different types of spoke nipple. (Are there different types? I'm sure there must be)

There was a time when the only important cycling question was Shimano or Campagnolo....
 
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youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Rolling up or sucking out punctured inner tubes? xx(

Am I the only one that does this with them?
View attachment 669896

- that's a tub*, not a tube.

*tubular tyre
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
- and it would have had a presta valve!
I still have a couple of pairs of those crocheted mitts, btw
 
My first "Proper" bike had Presta valves when I bought it and I've used Presta valves, and indeed the same bike, ever since I've never had any problem with them and I like the aesthetics and the way the pump fits over them. although I understand the advantages of Schraeder valves in a world where they're fitted to cars.

In Germany Woods valves are very common, almost standard on bicycles, although they're known as "German" or "Rocket" valves here. I personally dislike them: they're ugly and awkward to fit a pump properly. They seem to get bunged up easily so they frequently don't work when I'm trying to pump them, need completely to be dismantled when changing a tube, in which case you can bet the core sticks so you have to yank it out, often with pliers. When taking the cap off the core sometimes comes with it, and they're easy to vandalise because you can just unscrew the collar leaving the bike not only with a flat tyre but no means of pumping it back up. I try to avoid them when customers don't express a preference.
 
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