Wobble Wobble and Wheel not true

[gazmercer]

Decided to take a look at my back wheel today as it had started to wobble. I knew it was the cones, tried to sort it out but just couldn't get the freewheel off (I need a good vice or something). Anyway, I tightened up the cones on the none drive side a little and the wobble has gone but it's grinding a little (not got time to look at it anymore as I have to be in work soon, on the bike I'm fettling with).

Now the wheel had stopped wobbling I noticed it wasn't true. Out came the spoke key and off I went. OOPS !! Wheel went totally out. Called Halfords to see if it was covered under guarantee and they said it would cost £12 to true it or £35 if it was a new wheel. PAH, I said, stripped the tyre off the wheel (I had punctured the inner tube while messing with spokes earlier so it needed to be done).

Got an Allen key and some plasticine and fixed the Allen key to the frame, just scraping the wheel rim. Turned the wheel slowly and found the untrue section. Followed a section on Bikemagic on truing a wheel (White Apple Mac and Bike Oil don't mix too well either). Within an hour I had almost got it perfect. When I have more time I will take a proper look and see if I can get it even better.

All in all it turned out OK but after a few F*** ups. Not taken it for a test ride so hope none of the spokes break on me and there are no hops in the wheel.

Moral of the story, don't fettle with the bike you commute to work on especially hours before leaving.

I am going to get a bath and something to eat now. If you don't hear from me later I'll be in a ditch or something with a bike with one wheel

 

[bad boy]

lol - nice one Gaz bet there is a certain amount of satisfaction in doing it yourself.

I had problems with my rear wheel a while ago and decided that like you I would give it ago myself and was very pleased with the results which 1 month later the wheel is still as true as it was when I first done it.

 

[gazmercer]

Yes bad boy, there was a sense of achievement. Just hope mine holds out on my way to work tonight

 

[gbb]

Decided to take a look at my back wheel today as it had started to wobble. I knew it was the cones, tried to sort it out but just couldn't get the freewheel off (I need a good vice or something). Anyway, I tightened up the cones on the none drive side a little and the wobble has gone but it's grinding a little (not got time to look at it anymore as I have to be in work soon, on the bike I'm fettling with).

Now the wheel had stopped wobbling I noticed it wasn't true. Out came the spoke key and off I went. OOPS !! Wheel went totally out. Called Halfords to see if it was covered under guarantee and they said it would cost £12 to true it or £35 if it was a new wheel. PAH, I said, stripped the tyre off the wheel (I had punctured the inner tube while messing with spokes earlier so it needed to be done).

Got an Allen key and some plasticine and fixed the Allen key to the frame, just scraping the wheel rim. Turned the wheel slowly and found the untrue section. Followed a section on Bikemagic on truing a wheel (White Apple Mac and Bike Oil don't mix too well either). Within an hour I had almost got it perfect. When I have more time I will take a proper look and see if I can get it even better.

All in all it turned out OK but after a few F*** ups. Not taken it for a test ride so hope none of the spokes break on me and there are no hops in the wheel.

Moral of the story, don't fettle with the bike you commute to work on especially hours before leaving.

I am going to get a bath and something to eat now. If you don't hear from me later I'll be in a ditch or something with a bike with one wheel

Is there any merit or need in removing the freewheel ? I do all my wheels with the freewheel in place, simply undo the non drive side locknuts and cones and extract the axle (with drive side cones etc still attached).
You can still get access to the drive side cups to get grease in, then re-fit the axle from the drive side.
Unless the drive side cone is damaged, i find it easier to leave it exactly where it is on the axle .
Hope that makes sense

 

[Cubist]

^^^^ Trouble is gbb, some hubs are set up so that you can only access the cones & locknut with the cassette removed. Cubester's old Shimano hubs were like that, with the locknuts buried on the same side as the brake rotor.

(Edit after rereading the post.......Yes, Gaz should be able to feed the axle through and access everything from the no-drive side, but he's gonna have to be very good at bearing-setting. )

Gaz, you're gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a freewheel remover, and make yourself a chainwhip.

 

[gazmercer]

Gaz, you're gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a freewheel remover, and make yourself a chainwhip.

I've got a freewheel remover and a large adjustable spanner, oh and a hammer LOL, but yeah a chainwhip would probably make the job easier. I'll have a proper go when I'm off work next.

 

[gazmercer]

Well, I made it to work without any problems. Wheel is still attached to bike, spokes are all still in place, no pings or clunks, YAY!!!

Gear indexing is slightly out now but nothing I can't sort out.

 

[gavintc]

Loved the comment about the white apple and bike oil - one of the hazards of online bike maintenance instructions.