Orbea Gain

[youngoldbloke]

I'm only 72*, but need to use assistance all the time, mostly at the lowest level, but sometimes level 2 on hills. though no major climbs for me. My average is only around 12mph, so the battery is being used for much of the ride, as a result I estimate I'm fairly consistently using 2% battery for each mile covered, and a safe range of only around 40 - 45 miles.

edit * just realised almost 73

 

[Scaleyback]

I'm only 72*, but need to use assistance all the time, mostly at the lowest level, but sometimes level 2 on hills. though no major climbs for me. My average is only around 12mph, so the battery is being used for much of the ride, as a result I estimate I'm fairly consistently using 2% battery for each mile covered, and a safe range of only around 40 - 45 miles.

edit * just realised almost 73

Hi Peter,
Hopefully your " safe range of only around 40 - 45 miles " is sufficient for your needs ? I guess there is always the extender battery if needed ?

 

[Sigma501]

Good morning all, I have really enjoyed reading the last 62 pages in tge search for my first e-bike. I love cycling, but due to a previous heart attack and pulmonary Sarcoidosis, I really struggle on the climbs around my home which can be 10% for in excess of a mile to a 600ft climb in less than half a mile.

I am torn between the Orbea Gain D20 and the Giant Road E Pro+1. I can see that the battery in the Giant is bigger and that it is crank driven. The majority of my rides are 60 miles in length and my intent would be to only use the motor for climbing, using my own power for the straights.

Cognisant that this an Orbea page I would be grateful for a view on whether i would be better purchasing the D20 and the additional battery for the same price of the Giant.

 

[richtea]

> Good morning all, I have really enjoyed reading the last 62 pages ...


If you're only intending to use assistance on hills (as I do on my Orbea), then you may not need the extra battery on the Orbea. I find 70-80 miles is possible, but your area looks slightly hillier than round me.
If you do go Orbea, I'd hold off until you've done a few trips, see how you get on, and you might save £400-500.

(I can't comment on the Giant - never tried one, sorry.)

 

[Scaleyback]

Good morning all, I have really enjoyed reading the last 62 pages in tge search for my first e-bike. I love cycling, but due to a previous heart attack and pulmonary Sarcoidosis, I really struggle on the climbs around my home which can be 10% for in excess of a mile to a 600ft climb in less than half a mile.

I am torn between the Orbea Gain D20 and the Giant Road E Pro+1. I can see that the battery in the Giant is bigger and that it is crank driven. The majority of my rides are 60 miles in length and my intent would be to only use the motor for climbing, using my own power for the straights.

Cognisant that this an Orbea page I would be grateful for a view on whether i would be better purchasing the D20 and the additional battery for the same price of the Giant.

I have to admit your post sends me 'mixed messages' ? No intention to offend in my reply.
You have of course run this intended regimen past your doctor/cardiologist ? I ask because the few cyclists I know with previous heart problems
have invariably told me they are advised to not 'overdo' it ! e.g don't exceed a given HR beats per minute etc.
Disclaimer: I own a Gain D30 and have no experience of the Giant Road E Pro+1.
However a little googling and I find a 'claimed' weight of 19kg (41.8lbs) for the Giant. I stress claimed because all bikes (on the road)
are heavier than the marketing bull***t claims. They weigh them without pedals, reflectors, bells and with 'skinny tyres. I would assume this Giant is at least 20kg
The Gain D20 claimed weight is 13.6 Kg + extender of 1.6Kg I would expect this combo to weigh not far off 16Kg (OTR)
So a useful saving of approx 4 Kg.
" my intent would be to only use the motor for climbing, using my own power for the straights"
I can only assume you mean manually switching the battery power off ? you do know that once you are travelling at approx 25kph (15.5mph)
you are 'using' your own power don't you ? this of course depends on the individual rider, many (myself included) travel at +25kph
on flattish roads. (wind permitting)
Lets assume you are riding the Giant, on roads with traffic. Everytime you have to stop at a junction, lights etc are you going to switch the battery power back on or are you going to propel that 20kg bike up to speed yourself ? Don't underestimate this ! if you are turning right, crossing lanes you cannot afford to be 'labouring' to get that 20Kg rolling.
Roads are rarely flat for any appreciable distance, factor in the constant little 1%, 2%, 3% etc slopes 'scrubbing' off your gained speed. Trust me
a 20kg e-bike quickly feels like you are pulling a trailer on any incline. Everything also applies to the gain D20 of course but minus 4kg.
You get my point I hope ? imo you have to have the battery assist available all the time
Ok, I talk to much, always. Just my opinions and only trying to help.

 

[plustwos]

Good morning all, I have really enjoyed reading the last 62 pages in tge search for my first e-bike. I love cycling, but due to a previous heart attack and pulmonary Sarcoidosis, I really struggle on the climbs around my home which can be 10% for in excess of a mile to a 600ft climb in less than half a mile.

I am torn between the Orbea Gain D20 and the Giant Road E Pro+1. I can see that the battery in the Giant is bigger and that it is crank driven. The majority of my rides are 60 miles in length and my intent would be to only use the motor for climbing, using my own power for the straights.

Cognisant that this an Orbea page I would be grateful for a view on whether i would be better purchasing the D20 and the additional battery for the same price of the Giant.

You don't say how old you are. I'm 84 and I agree with Scaleyback's comments; the warnings I had from medics about overdoing it led me to forget a road bike, (neck trouble prevents me from using drops anyway) and settle for a Hybrid, which says, "Don't show off", every time I look at it. I'm fortunate to live on a plain with short stiff climbs resulting from ice age deposits, so I tend to ride easy without power and switch on for the slopes and especially when crossing main roads. Waiting for a break in traffic and accelerating across on a heavy bike takes some getting used to. The Orbea does look gorgeous but one has to grow old gracefully)
Ken

 

[Scaleyback]

You don't say how old you are. I'm 84 and I agree with Scaleyback's comments; etc etc

Hi Ken,
Well I have to say it is nice to be agreed with, I must show this to my wife .
Huge well done to you for ‘cycling on’ at the venerable age of 84. I am a mere lad of 73. Good to hear from you.
Roy

 

[plustwos]

Hi Ken,
Good to hear from you.
Roy

Gosh! From a Senior member! I was saying to my wife this morning what a nice bunch of people post here)
Ken

 

[G3CWI]

I was saying to my wife this morning what a nice bunch of people post here)

You're clearly new here...

 

[richtea]

The Gain only has 1x spoke lacing (or at least that's what my D50 has), which isn't ideal for strength.
I'm having my wheels rebuilt in 2-3 weeks time as a precaution, but I do weigh more than the average bear.
I've seen 2x lacing and 3x lacing on eBikeMotion hubs (Cannondale and Bianchi respectively), so it shouldn't be hard to improve on the factory lacing.
I'll to come back to the thread at some point, and let you know how it goes.

A quick update now I've been riding my rebuilt Gain wheels for about 6 weeks:
- they were built by Malcolm Borg
- they're 2x lacing for extra strength
- tube-only rims so I can mend punctures easily
- lead time was 4 weeks in the end
- cost was £180 inc P&P for both wheels (they would normally be a little more, but he had a pair of shop-soiled rims that suited)

I weigh 115Kg, so I'm quite a challenge for wheels, and that's presumably why the original Orbea wheels were already creaking after a few hundred miles of, er, heavy use. The new ones are rock solid, very evenly tensioned, no creaks, squeaks, etc. I'm very impressed, and I'd definitely recommend his wheelbuilding. He now knows the spoke sizes required for a Gain hub (or any other ebikemotion bikes) for any future orders.

Only one oddity - the original tyres (Hutchinson) wouldn't sit evenly in the new rims. Not sure why, but they always had one spot higher than the rest of the tyre - as though the tyres were slightly oversized. I had bought Conti Gatorskins anyway (for better puncture protection) and the problem was solved. The Hutchinsons were 'tubeless ready' if that makes a difference, but I'd still expect them to fit a tubed rim.

 

[Scaleyback]

A quick update now I've been riding my rebuilt Gain wheels for about 6 weeks:
- they were built by Malcolm Borg

How does that work then richtea ? do you send the complete wheels in to Malcolm Borg and he removes the motor and builds the new wheel around it ?

 

[samsbike]

sigma, I ride a 20kg hybrid and have ridden it without the motor powering it. Getting it going takes a bit of going but some of it is also due to gearing. I attempted for the first time in months to ride it in the woods without the motor, it was doable but I was on the first 2 gears except going downhill.

I would echo what someone up there said - although I am not sure why you need another battery.

My preference would be to get the Giant, mainly because of my personal preference in having a crank motor and easier to fix punctures (in my head anyway) and the bigger battery.

The motor automatically switches on and off, so I am not sure why you need to worry about switching it on and off.

10% climbs are pretty hard for me using low power on an ebike so kudos to you.

 

[Scaleyback]

‘Samsbike’ removing the rear wheel on the Orbea Gain (to repair a puncture) is easy. One electrical connection (push/pull) and the correct size hex key. As with most(all ?) of these ebikes the wheels do not have quick release.

 

[richtea]

How does that work then richtea ? do you send the complete wheels in to Malcolm Borg and he removes the motor and builds the new wheel around it ?

Correct! Although in my case to make it a bit simpler on the posting front, I took the original Orbea wheels apart*, and just sent the two hubs to him. I don't believe he'll consider using the Orbea rims anyway - he'll want to use rims and spokes he trusts, since he's guaranteeing the wheels.

If you do send them to him just hubs, only one thing different that I'd politely ask him to do: put a little more packing / protection material (decent amount of bubble wrap) around the rear hub. Once built, my rear wheel was chunky enough to start trying to making it's way sideways through the travel box he put the wheels in (which wouldn't happen with your average lightweight rear hub - but a 2Kg hub is a different matter). No damage done, but the cardboard was getting indented by the axle by the time they reached me.

Of course, if you send him whole wheels, you can do your own packing, and ask him to use the same packing for the return journey.

Oh, one other bit of advice - order and pay upfront (he'll say x weeks lead time) - hang on to your wheels until week x -1, and then send them in. Then you're only without your wheels for 1-2 weeks.

* discs off, gear cluster off, and then unscrew & remove all the spokes. About an hour's work, I'd say.

 

[Scaleyback]

‘richtea’ It seems you have a Boardman 8.9E as well as the Orbea Gain ? Care to give us your thoughts on a comparison between the two bikes ?