Raleigh Chiltern

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Tail End Charlie

Well, write it down boy ......
For some while I've had an itch for a 3 speed Sturmey Archer bike, don't know why, just have. Probably dates back to the 70's when I had a Raleigh singlespeed and on way home from school used to regularly race someone else going home from his work and he'd always beat me and I'd shout "it's only coz you've got gears"!
A couple of weeks ago I was out cycling and got flagged down by someone in a dressing gown (my initial thought was it was a confused elderly person) but he was having some granite worktops delivered and the two workmen needed help lifting them off the van. I duly helped unloading them into his garage and spotted a bike in the back of it, as you do. Mentioned it to the chap and he said he hadn't ridden it in years (he's about 80) and I left.
I mulled it over and went back today to see if he was interested in getting rid of it. Anyway I gave him £20 for this
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The tyres are perished and the chain is seized up and the gears don't change and the rims are very rusty but I'm looking forward to a bit of play time with it. Best thing is, it's actually my size. The hub is stamped 12 91.
Let the fettling begin!
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
That should clean up nicely with a bit of TLC. It needn't cost the earth either if you just want a useable bike rather an immaculate one.

Take the chain off (it should have a joining link somewhere) and drop it in a jar of diesel for a week and it will free out nicely and clean up well. Then soak it in engine oil.

Rims only look to have surface corrosion so a bit of time with a Brillo pad will work wonders. Same goes for the chainring.

A set of Michelin World Tours in amberwall will look the part and they're a decent tyre for the money.

Strip and grease the bearings - ideally replace them with loose ones if they've got cages or look pitted. Pay attention to the front lock nut arrangement as traditionally Raleigh used a slightly different design with only one adjustable cone and the wheel should be fitted in a certain way with the adjustable cup to the left to prevent it tightening when the bike is moving. Perhaps by the 1990s they were doing the same as everyone else.

If the rear hub seems gritty or doesn't change gear properly, fill it with diesel and slosh it around a bit and leave it to sit for a few days. Most will leak out anyway. Then drain it and add SAE30 motor oil. If it seems okay, just add fresh oil.

Replace the cables.

Clean and lubricate the brake pivots.

Clean and polish the frame

Arrive at the pub in style:okay:
 
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Tail End Charlie

Tail End Charlie

Well, write it down boy ......
Cheers, thanks @Tyred and @raleighnut . I was thinking along those lines tyred, after an afternoon tinkering I've got the gears to work and the chain is much better (but I'll still take off and bathe as you say). When you say add fresh oil to the hub do I just lie it on its side and dribble oil in? I've not had an SA before, I think that was a large part in me wanting one.
Seat post wasn't seized, result. Rims do need work but I hope to save them.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Cheers, thanks @Tyred and @raleighnut . I was thinking along those lines tyred, after an afternoon tinkering I've got the gears to work and the chain is much better (but I'll still take off and bathe as you say). When you say add fresh oil to the hub do I just lie it on its side and dribble oil in? I've not had an SA before, I think that was a large part in me wanting one.
Seat post wasn't seized, result. Rims do need work but I hope to save them.
Had they dropped the oil port by then (little cap on the body of the hub) if so just unscrew the change rod and squirt oil in, use plenty and stand the bike up but be aware that it will 'leak' out of the bearing cones (lubricating those) so either put it somewhere the oil won't matter or put plenty of old newspaper underneath to absorb it.
 

The_Cycling_Scientist

Über Member
Location
Cambridge
Depending on the model of it there should be a small capped piece that you can pour oil in (unless it's one of those odd ones that have "Sturmey Archer" pasted half way around the hub).
My guess is an AW hub which are the most common and least destructible ones. Practically bullet proof, aligning the gears is pretty easy too!
in order to get it syncing in all gears place it in 2nd gear and then on the nut there's a hole you'll see where the pin goes into the axle, the pin has a rounded part and then the links of it the end of the rounded bit should line up with the end of the axle in 2nd gear.
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/files/view-1000.pdf < this hear should give you some real help ;)
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Very nice . . . but why is there part of a leek stuck to the front forks?
:giggle:
 
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Tail End Charlie

Tail End Charlie

Well, write it down boy ......
A couple of weeks later, she now looks cared for and loved. Freed off the chain, soaked the SA hub in oil, regreased bottom bracket and front wheel, cleaned and painted the wheels (they were very rusty, so I painted the rim). Just back from the first of many trips to the allotment with broad beans in the bag for tea. I know it's nothing special or rare, but I love it!!
20160707_163408.jpg
 
Looking good!
Anyhoo, it's not always about rarity, if it was a special or rare machine you wouldn't feel you could use it to go pick beans up the lotty. I think you need a wooden apple box attached to the rack for a proper allotment cruiser ^_^
 
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