Raleigh pin hole BB removal. (Adjustable Cup side, standard thread.)

[GuyBoden]

I'm trying to re-grease the bb on my old Raleigh winter bike, it won't budge, even with the correct adjustable pin spanner and an extension tube for more leverage...

Soaked it in "Free It" oil for a few days, but it still won't budge, so, I've ordered the better quality Park Tool SPA-1 pin spanner.....

Any ideas?

This BB type:
View attachment 344587

 

[I like Skol]

Will the cup from the other side come out and the axle with it?

If it does then you just need a large nut and bolt and maybe a socket set with extension to get it out easily.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

That Parktool spanner is not going to help. It isn't a good tool at all. Invest in something like a Gedore pin spanner or take it somewhere to have done professionally. You do now that you require a C-spanner too. In fact, the C-spanner is the key tool here, the pin spanner is just to hold the inside to not move.

 

[raleighnut]

Hammer and drift always worked for me.

 

[GuyBoden]

Just got the Park pin spanner in the post and it bent it in half when trying to remove the BB with an extension tube.

That Parktool spanner is not going to help. It isn't a good tool at all. Invest in something like a Gedore pin spanner or take it somewhere to have done professionally. You do now that you require a C-spanner too. In fact, the C-spanner is the key tool here, the pin spanner is just to hold the inside to not move.

Yes, you were correct the Park tool was no help.
Thanks, but do I really need a C-spanner for this non drive side adjustable BB?
The local bike shop gave up too, they said it needs heating up. I'd prefer to keep the paint if possible.

Will the cup from the other side come out and the axle with it?

If it does then you just need a large nut and bolt and maybe a socket set with extension to get it out easily.

Yes, good idea, I've read Sheldon's Nut+Bolt technique, I'll try that if the drive side BB LH thread comes off easy in my vice.

Hammer and drift always worked for me.

Thanks, yes, I've tried a centre punch, but it only made the pin hole bigger.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Do you have access to a welder? Weld a piece of flat bar to the BB and turn it that way. I've used that a few times and if you are careful and make a nice shield, the paint remains intact.

No, you don't need a C-spanner for the job at hand. I suggested it based on the photo you posted.

 

[Tim Hall]

Turning it the right way?

 

[I like Skol]

The nut and bolt will work, trust me. The benefit of this is that you can reuse the BB cup if wanted, welding to it will render it scrap.

While you are at it, take that poor chain off and throw it away, it must be at least 3% worn judging by the slack at the top and bottom of the chainring!

 

[GuyBoden]

Turning it the right way?

Righty Tighty. Standard British thread non drive side.

 

[GuyBoden]

The nut and bolt will work, trust me. The benefit of this is that you can reuse the BB cup if wanted, welding to it will render it scrap.

While you are at it, take that poor chain off and throw it away, it must be at least 3% worn judging by the slack at the top and bottom of the chainring!

Many thanks, the drive side BB came off easily in the vice and I just need to find a suitable nut and bolt, and yes, the chain is going into the bin......

 

[I like Skol]

I just need to find a suitable nut and bolt,

Take one out of the tow ball on your car. If memory serves me correctly (it has been a loooooooong time since I last wrestled with cup & axle BBs) towbar bolts are the perfect size.

 

[GuyBoden]

I've got the BB out, many thanks to all.

I used the Nut+bolt technique, but the mild steel bolt snapped. (I'm not surprised, I really needed a hardened steel bolt.)

After a nice cuppa tea and some lunch, I then knocked the BB out with a flat ended chisel. It soon gave up after 10mins of big whacks with a lump hammer. Removing the drive side BB and Axle made it easier, thanks @I like Skol

 

[GuyBoden]

This vintage pin type BB I've struggled with is the worst I've ever encountered, I've never had problems with the older vintage Bottom Brackets, these pin type aren't easy to remove after years of use.

I prefer these type below (I've ordered one), they're easier to remove with a spanner or vice:

 

[I like Skol]

If you are replacing it anyway then why not just fit a Shimano UN26 or even better, a UN55 cartridge BB?

 

[gbb]

If you are replacing it anyway then why not just fit a Shimano UN26 or even better, a UN55 cartridge BB?

Exactly what I did on my Clubman to replace the old style BB.