Saddle Height.

[Slick]

I know that this should be a reasonably simple thing to get right, but I'm starting to think it's a bit more complex than I first thought. Long story short, I got a professional bike fit, which was good but probably the biggest difference was the height he raised the saddle by, well that and the cost of the new one.

Fast forward a bit, and I'm getting measured for a new bike. He keeps putting the seat up higher and higher, before declaring that's about right, although it didn't feel particularly comfortable to me. I've not got the bike yet but I thought I would set my own bike to the height suggested and try it on my commute. It felt fast, my cruising speed rose by around 5kph, but really uncomfortable on the ass and felt like a bit of extra pressure on the wrists. I certainly wouldn't like to be in that position all day.

I suppose my question is, should the bigger frame on the new bike alleviate the pressure on the wrists, is everyone trying to strike a balance between comfort and efficiency with saddle height, or would you set it to match whatever you want to achieve on any particular day, or have I totally misunderstood the whole process and overthought it?

 

[mjr]

I suppose my answer is: don't know about the bigger frame (trying to predict how changes affect wrist pressure hurts my head... but I think it would depend if your current bars were too close, hence putting pressure on your wrists, but then why not just change their position); no - for me, comfortable and efficient seem to be the same thing; not usually but I have sometimes run it deliberately low on frosty mornings; and probably and certainly

 

[helston90]

My fitter reminded me a few times that it was a process. After he put my saddle up similarly to yours and found I was getting pins and needles it came down by half a cm, then rotation of the bars, then this, then that, constantly tweaking based on the ball park which he got me to.

If it's fast but comfortably give it a little while, see if you think you can get used to it, if not change it a smidge.

 

[Broadside]

My fitter reminded me a few times that it was a process. After he put my saddle up similarly to yours and found I was getting pins and needles it came down by half a cm, then rotation of the bars, then this, then that, constantly tweaking based on the ball park which he got me to.

If it's fast but comfortably give it a little while, see if you think you can get used to it, if not change it a smidge.

I agree with this; bike fitting is one thing but I find it best to take Allen keys with me for the first couple of hundred miles with a new bike and tweak the setup on the road as I notice something is not quite right. It takes lots of very minor adjustments and then when it's good leave it alone and don't let anyone touch it!!

 

[Slick]

My thoughts on the bigger frame which I didn't explain is the difference in height between the saddle and bars will be less with the bigger frame, reducing the pressure on the wrists.

So far I'm at fast but feels really uncomfortable. Okay, leave it for another couple of rides before dropping it 20mm at a time to see what suits.

 

[mythste]

My thoughts on the bigger frame which I didn't explain is the difference in height between the saddle and bars will be less with the bigger frame, reducing the pressure on the wrists.

So far I'm at fast but feels really uncomfortable. Okay, leave it for another couple of rides before dropping it 20mm at a time to see what suits.

If by 20mm you mean 2mm then yes, do that!

 

[Slick]

If by 20mm you mean 2mm then yes, do that!

I thought maybe I had overshot when I said 20mm, but didn't think 2mm would be even noticeable.

 

[Slick]

I'll try that then.

 

[cyberknight]

Theres bike fits and bike fits , depends if he fitted you for comfort , speed or what ?
Does the fitter have a follow up service to address issues that might have arisen from the fit ?

I used to get pain in my shoulders and numb hands and it turned out my set up was to high and too far foward so i dropped the saddle 5 mm , back on the rails and a shorter stem so my weight was further back but the same effective height with a bit shorter reach.

 

[Slick]

Theres bike fits and bike fits , depends if he fitted you for comfort , speed or what ?
Does the fitter have a follow up service to address issues that might have arisen from the fit ?

I used to get pain in my shoulders and numb hands and it turned out my set up was to high and too far foward so i dropped the saddle 5 mm , back on the rails and a shorter stem so my weight was further back but the same effective height with a bit shorter reach.

Yeah, I did wonder if it was just one opinion versus another or if as you say, the original fitter was a bit more considerate to my level at that time. He does have an after sales service and I could go back to confirm, but it's now quite a distance from where I live so I am hoping my new found knowledge and the experience on the forum could save me quite a journey.

 

[MichaelW2]

Saddle to pedal distance may need t obe linked to fore-aft movement. Triathletes often rotate their position up and forward compared to a road tt position.
An adjustable stem is a valuable tool for getting the bar position optimised.
Whatever works for you is the right solution.

 

[mjr]

Yeah, I did wonder if it was just one opinion versus another or if as you say, the original fitter was a bit more considerate to my level at that time.

I think the recognised answer is "nyeeeeargh" There are clearly a variety of positions which will preserve the optimal distances between the various connections while varying the angles - and the optimal (and possible?) ranges of angles will probably vary depending on fitness, frame and many other factors. There are various famous schools of thought on bike fits and they don't completely agree.

I try to move my saddle no more than 5mm at a time when adjusting fit. Definitely not 20mm in one go but I'm more a "do what feels right" type of guy. According to online tools, my road bike position is close to Merckx style, which surprises me as I rarely feel anywhere near that low, although I do use the drops more than many.

 

[cyberknight]

I think the recognised answer is "nyeeeeargh" There are clearly a variety of positions which will preserve the optimal distances between the various connections while varying the angles - and the optimal (and possible?) ranges of angles will probably vary depending on fitness, frame and many other factors. There are various famous schools of thought on bike fits and they don't completely agree.

I try to move my saddle no more than 5mm at a time when adjusting fit. Definitely not 20mm in one go but I'm more a "do what feels right" type of guy. According to online tools, my road bike position is close to Merckx style, which surprises me as I rarely feel anywhere near that low, although I do use the drops more than many.

This is worth a read .
http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/changing-positions.html

 

[Mrs M]

I buy a bike that feels good as soon as I sit on it
Then twiddle about a bit with saddle height, bars, etc until it feels perfect.

 

[cyberknight]

I buy a bike that feels good as soon as I sit on it
Then twiddle about a bit with saddle height, bars, etc until it feels perfect.

Then write it down so you remember , im a b&&&r for trying changes and having to put it back to what works