Snapped spindle

[Ming the Merciless]

You said you used an allen key alone, and that you also used the same allen key on other bolts of your bike of the same size.

Correct. I said I used an Allen key and alone to remove my HT2 crankset. I did not say I used an Allen key to remove the BB. The two are different things and seperate.

 

[Drago]

The square taper design is simple, robust and compact, protected alike a snail in its house, and a proven over a century design, there is little that can go wrong,

Cough. Creaks. Cranks coming lose. The crank interface wearing with repeated disassembly or damage through incorrect fitment. Stress cracks on the cranks around the taper. And bearings that can and do fail, albeit probably with less frequency. Cough.

 

[silva]

Please provide a link to where park tools says to use hammer and chisel to remove a HT2 bottom bracket. Me, I prefer to use the correct tool for the job.

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/snapped-spindle.309571/post-7569967
Are you trying to restart the discussion?

 

[silva]

Correct. I said I used an Allen key and alone to remove my HT2 crankset. I did not say I used an Allen key to remove the BB. The two are different things and seperate.

It was you that changed subject from cranks removal to bottom bracket removal, not me.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

It was you that changed subject from cranks removal to bottom bracket removal, not me.

Nope you posted this, which is about BB removal and I was responding to that.

Do you?
Because when the Hollow Technology 2 bearings of my previous bike failed (alot play) I saw the dealer needed a chisel and a hammer to get the other half (driveside) loose.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/snapped-spindle.309571/post-7569967
Are you trying to restart the discussion?

That is about crankset removal, and does not mention using hammer chisel to do that. Where is the article suggesting hammer and chisel to remove the HT2 bottom bracket?

 

[roubaixtuesday]

The square taper design is simple, robust and compact, protected alike a snail in its house, and a proven over a century design, there is little that can go wrong,

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-192.html

 

[fossyant]

Anything can fail, especially if Silva has been near it, then it's guaranteed.

 

[silva]

Cough. Creaks. Cranks coming lose. The crank interface wearing with repeated disassembly or damage through incorrect fitment. Stress cracks on the cranks around the taper. And bearings that can and do fail, albeit probably with less frequency. Cough.

You know why the square was made taper, do you?
Precisely to compensate for that interface wearing.
That is, the wear can be compensated for, with the bucks staying in the wallet, all it needs is tensioning it further slope upwards.
The only "cost" is a chainline change, at the driveside then, for what it matters.

Also, the same applies, and even more, to Hollow Technology. See: the splines also wear. And in case aluminium even way more than the steel of the square taper axle.
I've seen that during my Octalink test period since the crank worked itself loose, something I never had happen before. And they have no taper to compensate, the only thing you can do is tighten the press fit as much as allowed on the remaining contact surface, and, which worked for me, and was the final solution: a cover to keep water out, since that proved to be the lubricating agent that made the press fit losing its fit.
That's also why the second version of the Hollow Technology also chosed longer splines = more contact surface, as to increase the contact surface, so a loss due to wear becomes a smaller % than it was with the first version.
Plus the clamp design of the cranks basis, with two bolts to tension the clamp towards the splines surfaces, abit similar to the bottom bracket eccenter chain tensioning system of my avatar bike.

And all this just to save 130 grammes in order to ride faster with a same effort.
It reads ridiculous, doesn't it?
Of course, and as said, it's understandable, it's the same reason even young people ride electric bikes nowadays. It allows them to keep up with the sportier 25km/hour without being as sporty.
So I'm not stating here that Hollow Technology is useless utter crap for every1.
It has a market, for a reason that is a choice of its customers.
But because I prioritize reliability and cost over being 1 sec faster on 1 km, I'm not among those, that's all.

 

[fossyant]

Octalink wasn't that good, and was quickly replaced with Hollowtech2, SRAM's GXP and FSA Megaexo. They are all very similar - I have all three and Shimano UN 300, UN71 and an unobtanium UN91 !

Bearings fail mainly, GXP being the worse. I've has UN55 wear out on the bearings.

 

[Webbo2]

Cough. Creaks. Cranks coming lose. The crank interface wearing with repeated disassembly or damage through incorrect fitment. Stress cracks on the cranks around the taper. And bearings that can and do fail, albeit probably with less frequency. Cough.

I think it was a new BB a year in the days of square taper.

 

[fossyant]

I think it was a new BB a year in the days of square taper.

The pre cartridge bearing ones were a faff.

 

[fossyant]

Anyway, @roubaixtuesday Is the bike back on the road yet ?

 

[roubaixtuesday]

Anyway, @roubaixtuesday Is the bike back on the road yet ?

Yes indeed.

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-have-you-fettled-today.87079/page-1184#post-7569643

Thoroughly soaked today, all seems well. Might just go check crank bolts now you've reminded me.

 

[fossyant]

Yes indeed.

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-have-you-fettled-today.87079/page-1184#post-7569643

Thoroughly soaked today, all seems well. Might just go check crank bolts now you've reminded me.

Were you waiting for the rain to wash the crud off ?