TRP HY-RD Cable Actuated Disc Brakes.

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Slick

Guru
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/trp-hy-rd-cable-actuated-hydraulic-disc-brake-caliper/

I have these on a Genesis Equilibrium. I have been having a bit of trouble getting the rear actuating arm to return back to its original off position after use. It isn't binding or anything so have just ignored it although it has been an issue almost since new and I just put it down to commuting in all conditions which included salt. The only issue that it throws up is the lever goes lose in the first few mm of travel.

On yesterday's ride, I was sure I could feel a brake bind from time to time but again it was so faint and intermittent that I ignored it. On the way home it started to rain and almost immediately the front brake squealed but didn't feel there was any biting. I soon realised it only happened when I was freewheeling which I thought was strange.

Has anyone any experience with either these brakes or these issues and how to sort them?
 
It's likely to be the cable. Disconnect the cable from the actuator arm and see if the caliper works OK manually
 

Jenkins

Legendary Member
Location
Felixstowe
Had the same problem with the rear brake on my Whyte Sussex which I put down to the cable run - even had it replaced under warranty but it didn't get any better so I ended up fitting an Avid BB7 Road caliper. Never had any problems with the front unit which worked brilliantly whatever the weather.
 
OP
OP
Slick

Slick

Guru

Pat "5mph"

A kilogrammicaly challenged woman
Moderator
Location
Glasgow
My tour de fer came with mechanical disk brakes, I assume they are the same across the range.
Mine never did brake properly from new, after 300 miles I changed them to hydraulic.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
Did you follow the correct procedure when adjusting the brake? The brakes have a mechanism for self-adjusting to compensate for brake pad wear. You are supposed to be able to do up the little screw with the knurled head on the brake assembly. If you can't then you have misadjusted the brake and the self-adjusting mechanism will not work properly. Remember to undo the screw again after doing the checking!

I have a HY/RD brake on the front of my CX bike. I recently discovered that the squealing and juddering that I had been plagued by was caused by not having the brake pads equally spaced either side of the disk. The solution is to loosen the bolts holding the brake assembly in place and then apply the brake hard. That should centralise the assembly. Keep holding the brake lever tight to hold the assembly in place as you retighten the bolts.
 
OP
OP
Slick

Slick

Guru
My tour de fer came with mechanical disk brakes, I assume they are the same across the range.
Mine never did brake properly from new, after 300 miles I changed them to hydraulic.
I'm not sure if they are the same Pat but I'm close to changing the entire system but don't want to throw the baby out with the bath water just yet.
 
OP
OP
Slick

Slick

Guru
Did you follow the correct procedure when adjusting the brake? The brakes have a mechanism for self-adjusting to compensate for brake pad wear. You are supposed to be able to do up the little screw with the knurled head on the brake assembly. If you can't then you have misadjusted the brake and the self-adjusting mechanism will not work properly. Remember to undo the screw again after doing the checking!

I have a HY/RD brake on the front of my CX bike. I recently discovered that the squealing and juddering that I had been plagued by was caused by not having the brake pads equally spaced either side of the disk. The solution is to loosen the bolts holding the brake assembly in place and then apply the brake hard. That should centralise the assembly. Keep holding the brake lever tight to hold the assembly in place as you retighten the bolts.
Both could be a possibility, I rarely follow the correct procedure for anything. I have been messing about with both for a while so will try re centralising both calipers again. Not sure where to start with the adjuster though.
 
OP
OP
Slick

Slick

Guru
I just found this video to explain the adjustment. It is even easier than the way I had been doing it ...


Nice, seems straightforward enough, he said hopefully.

I'll give it a try this week and see how I get on. Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Location
Gatley
I found the return mechanism isn't that strong and requires very good/clean cables to cleanly return, particularly the rear brake. I switched to Jagwire Road Pro XLs and they've been fine since (coming up for 2 years now).
 
OP
OP
Slick

Slick

Guru
I found the return mechanism isn't that strong and requires very good/clean cables to cleanly return, particularly the rear brake. I switched to Jagwire Road Pro XLs and they've been fine since (coming up for 2 years now).
The bike is probably only just over the 2 year mark but I reckon the return has been troublesome from the off. I'll release the cable first as suggested and if it returns fully I'll replace all my cables. Thanks for the tip though, hopefully that's all I'll need to do.
 
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