ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
A bit of a has-bean ...?
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winjim
Smash the cistern
Top troll, and nobody even called you out on it since they were too busy arguing with the other guy...
Racing roadkill
Guru
I use these Road bike tyre's with tread on the road bikes at present.
M+ with tread, on the Hybrids at present.
So no trolling.
Ajax Bay
Guru
Thought I'd see what had been said about these tyres. Surprised you did not include the text immediately below the review (that you got the image from).
"slick (but not bald) treads offer the most convincing grip, especially when it's raining dogs and you're blasting through the bends. However, manufacturers recognise that patterns are psychologically reassuring."
Bit surprised you are running this rugged bargain basement tyre on Cosmics.
BTwin Resist 9 Road Bike Tyre 700X25
BTwin's Resist 9 Road Bike Tyre is a rugged bargain basement 700x25c complete with puncture-preventing belts, 60tpi casings and deep, water-channelling tread.
At first glance, the tread pattern of the Resist 9 looks quite aggressive, especially by contemporary tastes, and similar to that found on Vittoria's Randonneur series. Given that bicycles don't aquaplane, slick (but not bald) treads offer the most convincing grip, especially when it's raining dogs and you're blasting through the bends. However, manufacturers recognise that patterns are psychologically reassuring.
keithmac
Guru
Interesting thread!, can you get front and rear specific tyres for bicycles?.
From a motorcycle point of view the front and rear tread patterns are a reverse of each other (and front and rear specific tyres).
I've not looked massively into this but I sumise the following, the front tyres maximum loading is when heavy braking and this requires the maximum grip available from the tyre (clockwise force).
The rear tyres maximum loading is on full acceleration (anti-clockwise force).
Seems the tread has more function than just water dispersion on motorcycle tyres as the tread pattern would be the same direction front and rear otherwise. (Tread blocks allow the compound to to heat up quicker, allowing a harder wearing compound).
Slick motorcycle tyres are like plasticine, you can dig your nails in and pull chunks of the compound off the tyre when cold!.
I suppose on a bicycle the brakes could apply the most force front and rear and that's why they are not wheel specific but just directional?.
From a motorcycle point of view the front and rear tread patterns are a reverse of each other (and front and rear specific tyres).
I've not looked massively into this but I sumise the following, the front tyres maximum loading is when heavy braking and this requires the maximum grip available from the tyre (clockwise force).
The rear tyres maximum loading is on full acceleration (anti-clockwise force).
Seems the tread has more function than just water dispersion on motorcycle tyres as the tread pattern would be the same direction front and rear otherwise. (Tread blocks allow the compound to to heat up quicker, allowing a harder wearing compound).
Slick motorcycle tyres are like plasticine, you can dig your nails in and pull chunks of the compound off the tyre when cold!.
I suppose on a bicycle the brakes could apply the most force front and rear and that's why they are not wheel specific but just directional?.
Racing roadkill
Guru
Try it, then come back and tell us what you think.
They may be "bargain basement" but they are pretty good in my experience thus far.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
It's all about tyre compound on a bike, and even on MTB's I believe !
On a road bike, the tyre compound makes the difference, not tread. Off road, the knobbles, make a difference on the type of riding, but the compound even makes a difference for the 'experts'.
As this thread is about tarmac, then it's the tyre compound that gets the grip in all situations. I have tyres I like and don't like in certain conditions as I've ridden them lots. Tread, not needed on tarmac.
On road going bikes, you don't need different compounds or treads front/back - the weight isn't high and there isn't a 1000cc motor powering it. MTB's then the tread pattern is a personal preference.
On a road bike, the tyre compound makes the difference, not tread. Off road, the knobbles, make a difference on the type of riding, but the compound even makes a difference for the 'experts'.
As this thread is about tarmac, then it's the tyre compound that gets the grip in all situations. I have tyres I like and don't like in certain conditions as I've ridden them lots. Tread, not needed on tarmac.
On road going bikes, you don't need different compounds or treads front/back - the weight isn't high and there isn't a 1000cc motor powering it. MTB's then the tread pattern is a personal preference.
Ajax Bay
Guru
I had a pair of these Giant P-SL2 which were sold as specific to front and rear, which came on a bike I bought. Seems the tread compound was meant to be the difference. I do not recommend these tyres. First one then the other developed a side bulge: the diagonal carcass threads had failed - to the extent that the bulge started rubbing on the fork. Having made it home and replaced it, foolishly I did not replace its twin on the rear: same mode of failure 1500km later when it started fouling the seatstay - saved by a local bike shop.
"This new folding-bead slick tyre from Giant grips and handles well in a variety of conditions, with some clever features that lifts it above run-of-the-mill general purpose rubber. The tread compound is different front and rear – softer and grippier up front, more hard-wearing in the rear."
lutonloony
Über Member
So if I can cycle fast enough in the rain, I should fit car tyres. Would the panel recommend radial or cross-ply?
Dirk
If 6 Was 9
Not all of them. It depends on the compound.
A qualifying tyre would be a lot softer than one used to do a full race distance.
Racing roadkill
Guru
You believe wrong. The critical metric is 'mu'. mu is most influenced by compound, but the chemical reaction between the rubber and the tarmac, is also drastically effected by whether or not the compound is in direct contact with the tarmac. Anything that helps move water away from the contact patch helps dramatically. It's particularly noticeable with braking and acceleration in a straight line. If you cane it into a corner on a slick, under braking, and do the same on a treaded tyre, the outcomes are going to be different. How you deal with it is also going to vary, but the bottom line is, mu is increased if the contact patch is directly attatched to the tarmac.
Jenkins
Legendary Member
winjim
Smash the cistern
OK, you both lose a mark for not properly defining your terms, but what I'm more interested in is the chemical reaction between rubber and tarmac. How does that work then?
Racing roadkill
Guru
The 'nd' figure ( stress corrosion coefficients) are different. The front tyre is designed to cope with more deformations ( due to steering trail, as well as the accelerations that the rear is subject to). The front tyre should have a higher 'nd' than the rear tyre. Again it's casting pearls before swine, for the most part, but if you know what you're doing, the difference, should be advantageous.
Racing roadkill
Guru
That's the thing that makes the tyre work. It's a base principle, without it, the tyre can't work. I could go hunting for the relavant abstracts, but I can't be arsed.
