What am I doing to cause my rear gears to slip?

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gilespargiter

Veteran
Location
N Wales
It is such a shame to hear that you are having so much trouble with your bike. Especially when you are so new to using it and just want to get to work. I'am sure you have a busy life and did not expect to have so much trouble just using your bike. You have got a model of bike that is reasonably well made and should work well. So it is worth being patient and persisting to this aim.

Another good thing for you to know is that you have actually got about the most complicated type of gear system to use that a bike can have. When it is finally adjusted properly and you have learn't to use it fully you will be able to ride just about any bike out there.

It is also a type of bike that you will be able to ride comfortably pretty much anywhere that any bike can go. So you have chosen well in that respect.

I think the trouble we are having here is understanding just exactly what you are describing. This makes it difficult to help meaningfully. People have different variations in the way that they describe the same parts but bearing that in mind, lets establish a way to describe some of the critical parts so that you can explain to us clearly. I'am sure you can see quite a lot of this already - but we need a clear way to explain to each other (and the shop).

At the front by your pedals you have three "chainrings" - a big one on the outside, a medium one in the middle, and a small one on the inside.
Next to them fastened to the "seat tube" you have a mechanism to make the "chain" de - rail from one to another this is the "front derailleur"

When the chain is going round the SMALL "chainring" it makes it easier to push the bike but the pedals spin very fast, and you don't go very far this is a "low" gear. Conversely the BIG "chainring" makes the bike difficult to push and the bike goes a long way each time the pedals go round, this is a "high" gear.

At the back in the middle of the wheel you have a "cluster" of eight "sprockets" that the chain goes round to drive the wheel. You have a big "sprocket" close to the wheel. When the chain is going round the BIG "sprocket" it makes the bike easier to push and the pedals go quickly, but the bike doesn't go very far each time they go round, again this is a "low" gear. Conversely (as with the "chainrings") when the chain goes round the SMALL "sprocket" you have a "high" gear.
This might be a little confusing because the "high" gear is when you are on the smaller "sprockets" and the "low" gear is when you are on the bigger "sprockets" - the opposite to what happens when the chain is on a big "chainring" or a little "chainring"
Little "chainring" big "sprocket" "low" gear
Big "chainring" little "sprocket" "High" gear.

The mechanism near the back wheel that the chain passes through to get to the "sprockets", de-rails the chain to select a "sprocket". This is the "rear derailleur".

Here are some other points about how to operate the gear changing mechanisms (mechs) the "derailleurs".

Never operate them when the bike is stationary. - It can cause damage to them if forced towards a bigger "sprocket" or "chainring". It may also make the pedals suddenly spin as you try to start moving.

Only change one "derailleur" at a time - when it is properly engaged - then you can change the other if you want to.

Only operate the "derailleurs" with hardly any push on the pedals. This is especially important when changing the "front derailleur" - It causes undue strain on there mechanisms and can also result in the pedals suddenly spinning. To start with this is sometimes not very easy, so you need to predict what is going to happen in front of you and give yourself plenty of distance to change gear. To start with you might slow down quite a lot while you do this. With practice you will get better and become quicker at it but concentrate on doing it properly - the speed will eventually come without you even noticing. Take no notice of what some other cyclist might be doing - they may have had a great deal more practice or even be wearing their gears out very fast.

I hope this helps you to be able to enjoy your nice new bike better.

To anyone else on here - this person is in Birmingham (apparently) - there must be someone here who could meet him and run him through this? After all the single best thing you can do to make your own cycling easier and safer is encourage someone else to ride a bike - so it is not alltruism!
 

tom73

Guru
Location
Yorkshire
@gilespargiter On behalf of all us newbie's thank you.
 

nickAKA

Über Member
Location
Manchester
Only operate the "derailleurs" with hardly any push on the pedals. This is especially important when changing the "front derailleur" - It causes undue strain on there mechanisms and can also result in the pedals suddenly spinning. To start with this is sometimes not very easy, so you need to predict what is going to happen in front of you and give yourself plenty of distance to change gear. To start with you might slow down quite a lot while you do this. With practice you will get better and become quicker at it but concentrate on doing it properly - the speed will eventually come without you even noticing.

^^^THIS ^^^

Soft-pedal (ie. just rotate the cranks without putting any unnecessary pressure on) when changing gear, especially when using the mech on the crank / chainrings / front gears. You soon get used to doing it; occasionally you have no choice but to change gear in a less than ideal situation but try to anticipate the gradients & act accordingly.
 
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T675Rich

T675Rich

Senior Member
Location
Birmingham
@gilespargiter, that's great stuff thank you. I do try to change with little pressure on the pedals but I do get caught out at times especially in heavier traffic. Unfortunately just as I was about to leave work someone popped in with an urgent query...so I am going to miss the store today. see how the ride home goes.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
So I had a little play with the barrel adjuster and it didn't seem to be doing anything but then the cable didn't seem to be sitting in the shifter properly, I moved it around a bit and it seemed to slot back into place and then the barrel adjust seemed to start making a difference and it seems to be ok now. The ride home takes me near to the bike shop so I might just swing in before they close.

I am tempted to try and mount my helmet cam that I use on the motorbike and point it at the gears to get a better look at what is happening.

The cable not being in the shifter properly sounds like it was the problem to me. These problems are often relatively easy to fix with the application of a bit of common sense and taking the time to figure out how things fit together. I reckon you could probably fix it now you know where to look if it goes wrong again.

Don't forget that youtube is your friend for finding out loads of information, and don't be afraid to ask stupid questions here we've all been there.
 
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T675Rich

T675Rich

Senior Member
Location
Birmingham
I wish you well Rich. I'am sure you will get their, we all had to start at the beginning. I hope you can enjoy your ride home. take it eeezzy!

The ride home was pretty good, I have a couple of slip issues but they were in higher gears where it caused me less issue. I rode in today and again mainly fine, I attached my helmet came to the bike to get the sprokets encase it slipped but it wasn't aimed quite right and I only had a couple of small issues.

The cable not being in the shifter properly sounds like it was the problem to me. These problems are often relatively easy to fix with the application of a bit of common sense and taking the time to figure out how things fit together. I reckon you could probably fix it now you know where to look if it goes wrong again.

Don't forget that youtube is your friend for finding out loads of information, and don't be afraid to ask stupid questions here we've all been there.

I don't know if it has always been like this but when the bike in in the the smallest chaining the derailleur is touching my bottle cage. I am wondering if that shited a little. But the front was fine today.
 

BeardyAndyM

Well-Known Member
Location
Southampton
I've only speed read the replies so apologies if this has been said but gear selection with a triple is important. Try to keep the chain as straight as possible at all times, if you have it on the big ring at the front it should also be on the smaller gears at the back and when its on the small (granny) gear at the front you should be on the bigger (lower) gears at the back.
 
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T675Rich

T675Rich

Senior Member
Location
Birmingham
I've only speed read the replies so apologies if this has been said but gear selection with a triple is important. Try to keep the chain as straight as possible at all times, if you have it on the big ring at the front it should also be on the smaller gears at the back and when its on the small (granny) gear at the front you should be on the bigger (lower) gears at the back.

The first time I took the bike back I asked if this could be part of the problem and they said you no longer had to worry about that any more, although I generally do do that automatically.
 

BeardyAndyM

Well-Known Member
Location
Southampton
It’s always an issue unless your using 1x or Di2 and the likes, these guys sound clueless!
Check for a sticky chain link, that’ll be more apparent on the bigger cogs and only under load. If not, get them to bung on a new Shimano or SRAM chain. It really sounds like a chain/cassette interface issue, same as when your chain gets worn and the 2 don’t mesh together. I can’t imagine it’s a freehub issue, they either work or don’t!
 

gilespargiter

Veteran
Location
N Wales
I'am pleased to know you are finding it better now Rich. You may well have found the problem or at least a big part of it from what you say. It may need a couple of tweeks and twiddles by the shop.

The bottle cage touching the front derailleur could be a thing, might just be the bottle cage is pushed over a bit to far though. On two of my bikes I can sometimes knock the bottle carrier so that the bottle rubs the chainring.

Beardy Andy has got a point about the chain. You have eight sprockets in your cluster at the back, so it is possible that either a slightly narrow or even possibly slightly wide chain has been incorrectly fitted.

I notice from the spec sheet that the manufacturer fitted chain is quite low quality. I would reccomend fitting a Kmc 'X' type chain for very good value - often fitted to top range bikes as original spec.

As the machine has put in an automatic link to somewhere, I might as well edit in a more useful link; http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kmc-x8-99-8-speed-chain/
 
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A bit late here to add my two pennyworth, but are you using the wrong combo of Chianring and sprockets,ie, Small chainring to small sprocket or have upu too long a chain both of which would cause chain slip.?
 
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T675Rich

T675Rich

Senior Member
Location
Birmingham
I generally use 1-4 on the sprocket with 1 on the chainring, the full range on the sprocket on the 2nd chainring and 4-8 on the third chainring. is that ok?

It seems to be having less issues with slipping since I had the problem with the front derailleur and managed to sort that out. it's still due a service from the shop my hopefully either the problem is resolved or I am being less cack handed with gear changes.
 

gilespargiter

Veteran
Location
N Wales
That sounds about spot on Rich, if you mean the no. 1 chainring is the big one and number 1 sprocket is the small one?

I'am sure that it does help that you are becoming more familiar with it all.

I would seriously recommend that you change the chain as I mentioned before when you can, because as well as the slight chance that you have an incorrect chain, the "z" type chain as original spec is of lower quality and will wear quite fast, it is a sort I would put on a childs bike which will do low miles and will not have the strain that an adult can exert. A better chain will make your whole chainset last significantly longer, and will be cheaper overall.

Very pleased to know that you are finding it better now. I admire your persistence and approach to this, I think that you will be one of the people giving others advice before long if you keep on as you are.
 
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T675Rich

T675Rich

Senior Member
Location
Birmingham
That sounds about spot on Rich, if you mean the no. 1 chainring is the big one and number 1 sprocket is the small one?

I'am sure that it does help that you are becoming more familiar with it all.

I would seriously recommend that you change the chain as I mentioned before when you can, because as well as the slight chance that you have an incorrect chain, the "z" type chain as original spec is of lower quality and will wear quite fast, it is a sort I would put on a childs bike which will do low miles and will not have the strain that an adult can exert. A better chain will make your whole chainset last significantly longer, and will be cheaper overall.

Very pleased to know that you are finding it better now. I admire your persistence and approach to this, I think that you will be one of the people giving others advice before long if you keep on as you are.

It's the opposite, when my chainring gear selector is in position 1 it is the smallest and on position 1 on the rear selector is the biggest socket on the cassette.

I will look into replacing the chain, then try and replace it mess it up and post on here :P
 
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