Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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ridelover9941
Well-Known Member
- Location
- United States
Fitted my chain with a new master link after removing some bent links and rivets. Got a little help from my father who knows some things about bikes.
cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
Replaced head set bearings , chain and front brake pads on the boardman road comp .Changed the tyres the other day as after a year on commuting duties the rear was starting to puncture a lot .
Tenacious Sloth
Guru
- Location
- Huntingdon, UK
That's on my to-do list...
I really ought to order those new chainrings as well. Then I need to figure out how to replace them.
Depending upon which chainset you have, be very careful not to damage the heads when removing the old chainring bolts. The use of the correct tool really helps with these. Well. For Shimano ones anyway.
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Shimano Claris is what's on the bike. The bolts undo with an allen key, I think. Thanks for the heads up tho
Tenacious Sloth
Guru
- Location
- Huntingdon, UK
Shimano Claris is what's on the bike. The bolts undo with an allen key, I think. Thanks for the heads up tho
Yep. The bolts on my Shimano 105 are also Allen key heads. It’s the nuts on the back that have a couple of shallow slots with which to hold them while you unscrew the bolts. Maybe Claris is different, I know my FSA chainring nuts were also Allen key. A much better design.
Use of a cheap tool on the slotted nuts can cause the slots to become damaged, making removal very difficult. I’ve found the best tools are the T-handled ones - such as this: https://www.evanscycles.com/fwe-cha...MI1pqblob-2wIVgQvTCh2uZg-xEAQYBSABEgKQPPD_BwE
I also tend to remove the crankset from the bottom bracket to gain better access to the nuts.
Nothing with working on bikes is ever straightforward is it?
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Yep. The bolts on my Shimano 105 are also Allen key heads. It’s the nuts on the back that have a couple of shallow slots with which to hold them while you unscrew the bolts. Maybe Claris is different, I know my FSA chainring nuts were also Allen key. A much better design.
Use of a cheap tool on the slotted nuts can cause the slots to become damaged, making removal very difficult. I’ve found the best tools are the T-handled ones.
I also tend to remove the crankset from the bottom bracket to gain better access to the nuts.
Nothing with working on bikes is ever straightforward is it?
I think the set-up with Claris is the same as you describe. That looks reasonably straightforward if I'm careful and use the right tools.
Was wondering about removing the right crank and pedal.
stoatsngroats
Guru
- Location
- South East
Finished fitting pitlock to 2 bikes, including the thru axle on my 29er. Pitstoppers used for each, bars, and calipers, so I can feel a little more happy about leaving these 2, whilst we gad about.
A nice 25 miler, including part of NCN2, the new bit between Littlehampton and Bognor Regis, (or part thereof), which is pretty well done.
It was being well used as we saw almost 20 others cycling it during our 10 mile out and back section here.
A nice 25 miler, including part of NCN2, the new bit between Littlehampton and Bognor Regis, (or part thereof), which is pretty well done.
It was being well used as we saw almost 20 others cycling it during our 10 mile out and back section here.
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HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
My FSA has larger cups than my Ultegra on another bike and requires a SRAM GXP BB. I'm not convinced with the quality of SRAM, the original Truativ BB lasted circa 16,000 I think with all year round use on gritty roads. SRAM bought Truativ and the replacement only lasted a few 1000 miles on cleaner roads (although it might have seen more floods :-/ )
BianchiVirgin
Über Member
- Location
- Norn Iron
Mine's only 1200km old, since early March. Bone dry. Has never seen a wet road never mind rain.
- Location
- Shrewsbury, Shropshire
Brake blocks for the second time in as many days.
Yesterday was on the Raleigh after discovering I'd let the front blocks wear down to the metal backing. Oops!
Today was on the bike I sold to a friend as it was making a horrendous screeching. Those, although pretty much unworn, had gone hard with age so I've replaced them. The 80s cantilevers were a pig to set up and one straddle wire needed replacing too as it was fraying but it's sorted and they now work silently.
Yesterday was on the Raleigh after discovering I'd let the front blocks wear down to the metal backing. Oops!
Today was on the bike I sold to a friend as it was making a horrendous screeching. Those, although pretty much unworn, had gone hard with age so I've replaced them. The 80s cantilevers were a pig to set up and one straddle wire needed replacing too as it was fraying but it's sorted and they now work silently.
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
A brake-related fettle for me as well.
My newish rear XT disc calliper has been binding a bit.
I centralise it, re-tighten, and all is well - until it starts binding again.
Applying car disc brake knowledge, I decided to remove the pads and rub down the two short edges of each pad with emery cloth.
The theory being the pads are binding on the inside of the calliper.
Not much rubbing required, I didn't do a lot more than take the paint off.
Pulling the brake to bits also enabled me to establish the spring between the pads is working.
It feels quite strong, so ought to have enough boing to push the pads apart.
As a general point, my experience has dented my previous faith in Shimano 'flat bar' discs.
The original rear calliper self-destructed after about 3,000 miles, and was about £60 to replace.
Performance is OK - there's a heavy ebike and rider to stop - but rubbing pads is the sort of fault I would expect from a cheap 'no brand' brake, not one of Shimano's more expensive products.
My newish rear XT disc calliper has been binding a bit.
I centralise it, re-tighten, and all is well - until it starts binding again.
Applying car disc brake knowledge, I decided to remove the pads and rub down the two short edges of each pad with emery cloth.
The theory being the pads are binding on the inside of the calliper.
Not much rubbing required, I didn't do a lot more than take the paint off.
Pulling the brake to bits also enabled me to establish the spring between the pads is working.
It feels quite strong, so ought to have enough boing to push the pads apart.
As a general point, my experience has dented my previous faith in Shimano 'flat bar' discs.
The original rear calliper self-destructed after about 3,000 miles, and was about £60 to replace.
Performance is OK - there's a heavy ebike and rider to stop - but rubbing pads is the sort of fault I would expect from a cheap 'no brand' brake, not one of Shimano's more expensive products.
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Fitted Lizard Skin bar tape to the Felt. It goes on pretty well, looks good, and feels nicely cushioned. I should hope so for £30...
