Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Friction shifters old boy, friction shifters.
What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
Got to love friction shifting.
Just in from an evening fettle. The Di2 bits started arriving today, in fact far more than I expected hence the late night 
The only parts outstanding are the frame grommet kit, the RH lever (it was cheaper to buy them seperately for some unknown reason and they came from different suppliers 
) new bar tape and the bar end junction box.
I started by stripping down the bars and fitting the LH lever. I left the old RH lever in place to use as a reference so I dont have much adjustment to do when it's al back together. I drilled two small oval holes and removed all burrs, one 40mm in from each end of the bars. I then fed the old inner gear cable through the bars to fish the first eTube wire through; you can just about make it out in the image below, with the wire coming out of the drilled hole on the LH of the bars and out of the end of the bars on the RH side. This cable connects to the LH shifter and will connect to the bar end junction box on the right when it arrives.
Once connected I taped the wires and brake hose to the bars ready for bar tape, leaving a little slack in case the lever needs moving slightly.
Next is the WU-111 bluetooth module - I don't think I could have got it any closer to the GPS mount if I'd tried
I read somewhere about putting cable ties around the wire that goes through the downtube to prevent it knocking whilst riding - I used this technique on the Bianchi when I installed Di2 earlier in the year and it seems to have worked a treat so repeated it this time also. I couldn't get the cable ties through the hole at the top so ended up fishing the inner gear cable through and pulling the wire up from the bottom, cable ties and all
Where there's a will there's a way 
With the downtube wire in I fitted the junction box at the BB end and quite quickly had the remaining wires threaded through for the battery and mechs.
With the junction box wrapped in bubble wrap and poked back up the seat tube I refitted the BB then fitted the new Di2 mechs.
Nothing more I could do without the outstanding parts so it was wheels back on and put the bike to bed for the evening, locked back up on the wall. I've got the battery fitted in the seatpost, you can just see it between the seat and chainstays on the bench in the pic below. I haven't fitted it because I don't want to energise the system before its got all the bits connected; no idea if it would do any harm but I'd be annoyed if it did
I don't think any bits are due tomorrow but I could bleed the rear brake if nothing else
The only parts outstanding are the frame grommet kit, the RH lever (it was cheaper to buy them seperately for some unknown reason and they came from different suppliers ) new bar tape and the bar end junction box.I started by stripping down the bars and fitting the LH lever. I left the old RH lever in place to use as a reference so I dont have much adjustment to do when it's al back together. I drilled two small oval holes and removed all burrs, one 40mm in from each end of the bars. I then fed the old inner gear cable through the bars to fish the first eTube wire through; you can just about make it out in the image below, with the wire coming out of the drilled hole on the LH of the bars and out of the end of the bars on the RH side. This cable connects to the LH shifter and will connect to the bar end junction box on the right when it arrives.
Once connected I taped the wires and brake hose to the bars ready for bar tape, leaving a little slack in case the lever needs moving slightly.
Next is the WU-111 bluetooth module - I don't think I could have got it any closer to the GPS mount if I'd tried
I read somewhere about putting cable ties around the wire that goes through the downtube to prevent it knocking whilst riding - I used this technique on the Bianchi when I installed Di2 earlier in the year and it seems to have worked a treat so repeated it this time also. I couldn't get the cable ties through the hole at the top so ended up fishing the inner gear cable through and pulling the wire up from the bottom, cable ties and all
Where there's a will there's a way With the downtube wire in I fitted the junction box at the BB end and quite quickly had the remaining wires threaded through for the battery and mechs.
With the junction box wrapped in bubble wrap and poked back up the seat tube I refitted the BB then fitted the new Di2 mechs.
Nothing more I could do without the outstanding parts so it was wheels back on and put the bike to bed for the evening, locked back up on the wall. I've got the battery fitted in the seatpost, you can just see it between the seat and chainstays on the bench in the pic below. I haven't fitted it because I don't want to energise the system before its got all the bits connected; no idea if it would do any harm but I'd be annoyed if it did
I don't think any bits are due tomorrow but I could bleed the rear brake if nothing else
No new bits today so I spent some time cleaning up the Ultegra bits that came off and posted them up for sale on my club facebook page. No takers yet but I doubt they'll hang around long, they're pristine 
I'd keep them if I had another bike to put them on but fear I'd be in a spot of bother if I bought a new frameset for the purpose
I'd keep them if I had another bike to put them on but fear I'd be in a spot of bother if I bought a new frameset for the purpose 
LeetleGreyCells
Un rouleur infatigable
- Location
- Whitehaven Mansions
Installed new Charge Spoon saddle on MTB and lockable bar ends on road bike (the old ones - push-in type; kept working loose). Took less than 5 minutes including trying out the saddle.
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
Brought a lockable rack box from Decathlon for my wife's new bike. The only one I could find of a suitable size...but it required a specific rack. Nah, I'm not buying that too so quick release plate removed from rack box, existing rack drilled and tapped, holes drilled in box then bolted down.
15v Lithium battery for her front lights fixed in box, cable temporarily fixed along frame to light...pending a more aesthetically pleasing method of fixing.
15v Lithium battery for her front lights fixed in box, cable temporarily fixed along frame to light...pending a more aesthetically pleasing method of fixing.
Elybazza61
Guru
Took the Helium to work and started removing the mechanical DA bits;doing it in lunch/tea breaks and 'quiet' spells so it's gonna take a while to do unlike the build above(but that's on some common Speccy anyway
).
).Took the Helium to work and started removing the mechanical DA bits;doing it in lunch/tea breaks and 'quiet' spells so it's gonna take a while to do unlike the build above(but that's on some common Speccy anyway
I look forward to seeing your progress, mine has slowed significantly from the rapid start I got due to parts not arriving or not being correct 
I contacted "Speccy" to get the right part number for the Di2 grommet set, then ordered them from Leisure Lakes where the bike came from. Turned up today along with the RH STI. I've got the STI fitted but the grommet set is quite obviously for a different frame 
I've used a couple of bits from it but have just had to order a few more odds and sods, rubber bungs etc to close off all the holes and get it finished. Fortunately the BB cable guide blanking plate I ordered at the same time was the right one so I fitted that this evening. I'm also still waiting for the bar end junction box which I foolishly ordered from Bike Inn forgetting they post from overseas and it takes an age to arrive 
They sent me tracking details on Monday but it still registers as "waiting to receive your parcel" None of it works without it so I can't even test anything until it's fitted 
I've decided to fit a slightly longer front brake hose since it all needs bleeding anyway so I'm going to pop to the LBS tomorrow and get that sorted which means I can bleed the brakes and get that all done in the afternoon then retape the LH side. I can't do the RH side until the junction box is fitted
Mega frustrating...One thing I can definitely say is I've noticed very little difference between the Dura Ace stuff I fitted to the Bianchi and this Ultegra stuff; I'm sure it's a few grams heavier but I'm impressed with the quality so far. If you covered the branding on the STI's I'd be hard pressed to tell them apart
A few photo's of progress to date; Bar end awaiting Junction Box A:
Both STI's now fitted, awaiting longer front brake hose before I tape it down and bleed them.
Front mech, awaiting round Di2 grommet as the kit came with the oval ones and I can't make them fit
Rear mech with grommet fitted, the only bit thats finished
Elybazza61
Guru
Looking good
Hopefully get some more done on mine tomorrow work permitting which will be mostly still stripping stuff including bb removal
;need to do this as I can't squeeze port no 2 in with the bb in place.C-Bear have told me I should be able to remove and re-fit the bb so we'll see what happens
Hopefully get some more done on mine tomorrow work permitting which will be mostly still stripping stuff including bb removal
;need to do this as I can't squeeze port no 2 in with the bb in place.C-Bear have told me I should be able to remove and re-fit the bb so we'll see what happensLooking good
Hopefully get some more done on mine tomorrow work permitting which will be mostly still stripping stuff including bb removal
If it's anything like the wheels mfg. one it should go in and out with no problems. Mine has a bead of loctite on each side so I only needed one tool to wind it out - once that side was out ~5mm I lightly knocked it through with a piece of wood and hammer to break the loctite on the other side
I spent some more time in the garage this afternoon as planned after sourcing a new hose and fittings for the front brake from the lbs. I decided since both brakes needed bleeding anyway I would re-run the rear hose too as it wasn't in the correct holes previously - I only realised after I rebuilt it last time and couldn't be faffed to change it then but decided to do it properly this time
So, rear hose re-routed and new Di2 BB blanking plate fitted in place of the old cable guides:I had bought some heat shrink to tidy the cable runs on the Bianchi and never used it so decided to put it to use on the Roubaix to keep the wires tidy. Since I was re-running the rear hose this allowed me to trim it to the exact length required to match the Di2 cable and heat shrink the two together, leaving me with this rather neat end result:
The new front hose has also been fitted which allowed me to bleed the brakes, both are now fully functioning and feeling much better than they did previously so I'm happy with that result. This meant the LH side of the bars was ready for bar tape so I got that fitted and called it a day
Short of a few bungs I'm only waiting for the pesky bar end Junction box before I can finish it off and take it for a spin, it's looking fab already so I can't wait to take it out in the rain and see how my updated winter bike performs
Last edited:
After watching many youtube videos, I decided to tackle my front disc brake. I haven't been happy with it since I got the bike. It worked fine, but it randomly used to rub for no reason. So today I took the wheel out, pads out, gave everything a good cleaning, pushed the pistons back in and realigned the calliper.
Took it for a quick 15km spin and all is quiet and braking power has improved. So despite being a bit nervous about tackling it, worth it!
Took it for a quick 15km spin and all is quiet and braking power has improved. So despite being a bit nervous about tackling it, worth it!
Elybazza61
Guru
Strip down started on the Helium today and may not have to remove the bb as the port can fit behind it.
Some pics of the 'progress'
Some pics of the 'progress'
NorthernDave
Never used Über Member
- Location
- The real Northern Powerhouse
Collected the new Carrera Zelos for the turbo trainer today.
Got to say I'm impressed with it at the price point - the deep metallic blue paint makes it look more expensive than it was and the paint finish is better than I've seen on some more costly bikes.
So, set the turbo up (despite the useless instructions which meant it took far longer than necessary), then set the new bike up - the handlebars needed rotating and a few other bits but nothing major. The Tourney gears (with microshifters!) feel a bit agricultural after 105 but work fine.
Got to say I'm impressed with it at the price point - the deep metallic blue paint makes it look more expensive than it was and the paint finish is better than I've seen on some more costly bikes.
So, set the turbo up (despite the useless instructions which meant it took far longer than necessary), then set the new bike up - the handlebars needed rotating and a few other bits but nothing major. The Tourney gears (with microshifters!) feel a bit agricultural after 105 but work fine.
