What Have You Fettled Today?

[JhnBssll]

A tidy job well done.
I like your Union Jack name stickers, where did you buy those?

Thanks

The decals came from here https://velovinyls.co.uk/product/outline-name-decals

 

[MontyVeda]

new back brake cable, outers and blocks.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Cut a fork steerer to size and fitted to frame with the headset. I'll have to get some decent hacksaw blades, it took ages.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Tackled the winter bike today. I had tried and failed to refit the clip-on crud roadracer mk2 guards that I used quite succesfully last year. Unfortunately since then I've gone to 28mm tires on the Roubaix and despite my best attempts it was impossible to get them to fit without rubbing. The clearance on both frame and forks with 28mm tires on this bike is very small so I decided to attempt to fit some 'proper' mudguards instead.

After a quick measure with my trusty calipers and a trip to my LBS I returned with some M-Part Primo 38x700c black guards for the bargain price of £39.99. They seem good quality and the measurements seemed to be pretty close to my requirements.
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I tackled the front first as in this instance the forks proved to be the smallest gap I had to deal with so figured if I could get the front to work the back should be a doddle

My first job was to see just how much clearance i had to play with so I test fitted the guard to the fork crown. When refitted the wheel wouldn't budge, bad start There was however fresh air visible between the guard and the fork, so I marked where the guard was fouling and got to work with the dremel.

View attachment 439190

I also dremeled flat the top of one of the rivets to try and eek out another half a millimeter. With the wheel back in I found it now turned, but there was a rub that I couldn't get rid of. This called for more drastic action so I drilled out the rivets completely and drilled two new holes for the bracket in front of the fork crown, then refitted the bracket above the guard. A few pop rivets held it back in place and another test fit was succesful, no more rubbing

View attachment 439196
I then sorted the stays out, the left hand side needed popping in the vice and reshaping slightly to avoid the disc caliper but nothing too serious.

View attachment 439198 View attachment 439199

With the front almost done I turned my attention to the rear. Again clearance was tight but nothing a bit of selective dremeling couldn't sort out I had to cut an oval hole for the seatstay bridge to nestle in to allow the guard to sit high enough to prevent rubbing but this is nicely hidden by the bridge itself.

View attachment 439200
It took a good couple of hours of tinkering to get it right but it seems spot on now, I'm pretty pleased with it. I won't really know if I've got enough clearance until I ride it but I'm fairly confident. Its certainly better than it was with the Crud's, and the alternative is to sell the bike and buy one with more clearance which I'd rather not do as I'm rather fond of it

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Superb job well done.

 

[andrew_s]

A puncture that turned out to need a complete new wheel.
3 spoke holes pulled out of the driveside hub flange, un-noticed beforehand due to disc brakes and wide mudguards, and the tyre had punctured because it was worn through to the canvas.
Still to do: retrieve the freehub, axle & cones for my spares box, and rebuild the wheel onto a new hub.

Cut a fork steerer to size and fitted to frame with the headset. I'll have to get some decent hacksaw blades, it took ages.

A pipe cutter is easiest
https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-tube-pipe-cutter/191157_BQ.prd

 

[HLaB]

Enforced fettling, on road p'ture repair then cleaning and lubing.

 

[Smokin Joe]

A pipe cutter is easiest
https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-tube-pipe-cutter/191157_BQ.prd

I was thinking that as I toiled away at it.

 

[DCLane]

I've ended up with 2 bikes from a friend to look at:

- The first is an Elswick Stag from the early 80's: Reynolds 500 frame so nothing special, but it has Shimano 600 shifters and front derailleur. Needs chain, cables, bottom bracket doing plus new tyres. RH crank off fine. LH crank the thread's stripped . So I've left that for now.

- The second is a Claud Butler hybrid from the mid-90's: 18 speed and Cro-Mo. Heavy lump with lots of bits added. To date:

• I've re-greased and added a missing bearing into the front wheel
• Fitted 'road' tyres instead of the cracked one and a chunky rear
• Ordered a bottom bracket from Halfords who a) didn't have it when showing and b) gave me one that was 73mm not 68mm . So as it was an adjustable one I've stripped it all out, cleaned everything and re-fitted it. All now working.

Still to do on this: chain, cables, rear hub and freewheel.

However, it's only cost about 50p, s/hand bits in stock plus my time to date.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

A road tyre fir 50p, wow!

 

[Shut Up Legs]

I endured weeks of constant clicking, then this weekend fixed the cause: the bottom bracket. Today's commutes were about as silent as the small animated fellow below, thanks to a new bottom bracket, and wheels that I replaced only 1 week ago.

 

[Salty seadog]

Well , I've just had a bath, so, me.

 

[betty swollocks]

Really annoying rattling driving me mad sorted on my Focus Izalco Max.
Been going on for months and I finally discovered the cause. My pump is secured with a bottle cage bracket and the pump's valve lock lever was vibrating against the downtube.
Bits of inner tube wrapped round the pump and lever and hey presto!
Why did it take me so long to figure this out?

 

[JhnBssll]

Just measured up the Roubaix and ordered eTube wires for it's Di2 install. I used my patented garden twine and electrical tape method; I'm sure there's a proper way of doing it but taping bits of garden twine to the bike helps me work out the best wire route, after which I measure the bits of twine to order the right length wire. I'd say it was fool proof but that would be leaving myself wide open to a cockup

I've gone for the bar end Junction A box again, same as the Oltre. It makes the install so much neater. I'll then run 2 wires through the bars from the bar end junction box, one to each shifter. The LH shifter will then have a wire going under the bar tape to a WU-111 bluetooth module which will double as a connector to allow me to remove the bars easily if needed. From there it'll run down through the down tube to junction box B and radiate out to the mechs and battery as normal I've spoken to Specialized and have ordered the kit of grommets and blanking plates needed to convert the frame so all being well I can start fitting bits as and when they arrive. I'm expecting the first few bits tomorrow

I also took the opportunity to fettle the mudguards, adding some gorilla tape to the undersides where I've had to make holes to help prevent unsightly seepage

 

[Drago]

Gave the Claud Butler a clean, wax and polished the alloy. I've a 6 speed freewheel in my Box O' Crap, and I'm thinking of replacing the 5 speed job on the Claud. Will it fit? Does anyone know?

Repaired an old, but decent, Cateye rear light that kept coming separated from its housing.

Pulled my finger out and downloaded several dozen rides from my Garmin.

 

[DCLane]

Gave the Claud Butler a clean, wax and polished the alloy. I've a 6 speed freewheel in my Box O' Crap, and I'm thinking of replacing the 5 speed job on the Claud. Will it fit? Does anyone know?

Yes. But if you've only got 5 speed shifters you'll be missing a gear.