Discussion in 'General Cycling Discussions' started by threebikesmcginty, 29 Sep 2011.
Thanks, I thought as much.
I'll add that to the "to do" list.
I normally select middle sprocket on rear cassette and adjust cable to get the chain bang on centre on the sprocket. Then top and bottom sprockets are set with the limit screws.
If its slow to go "down" the cassette (towards the small or "high" gear) then that will be due to sticking cables, the derailleur spring can't overcome the cable drag as easily as your thumb when going "up" the cassette..
Last time this happened to me the mech had excess play and needed replacing. I would whip the chain off and check how much lateral movement there is in the assembly by wiggling the bottom of the cage, it should be fairly solid. Pretty technical I know...
Fitted two fast rolling smart sam lmpac schwalbe tyres to the Ebike.
See if there a bit quieter.. And quicker on the tarmac work run sections
Got the chain onto the smallest cog, and the cable was *really* slack. Well, it was dangling, actually... So re-tensioned the cable and tweaked with the barrel adjuster.
Fingers crossed. Will test-ride tomorrow - I don't fancy being blown over right now.
I got about 10 years use out of my Chorus shifter before it started to lose its 'click'. I watched a video on YouTube which showed how to replace the inexpensive worn-out bits. I followed the instructions in the video and the shifter is working fine again now. I expect it to last me another 10 years!
The front brake on my winter Hybrid / hack felt extremely odd on the ride home on Tuesday, they are full hydraulics, so I thought I’d have a looky see what was what. The pads were absolutely finished, so I hooked out the big box of bike bits, bought in sales etc. but never used, and found some semi metallic pads I’d bought from Decathlon ages ago. They were 5 quid, rather than the 15 quid for the ‘official’ SRAM pads, and they are very good, but they don’t supply a new split pin to secure them, so it’s a good job I didn’t lose the one I had. All I needed was some crap weather to test them out properly we got some. They work brilliantly, and don’t howl when they get wet, unlike the resin / organics that were in before. I’ve also ordered a new Shimano R7000 Groupset ( proper bargain at Merlin cycles at the moment at 30 % off ) which will convert my old Triban 520 to a 540.
Quite a productive day today, fitted back brake pads to my Gtech ebike before work and repaired my air compressor for the princely sum of £15 tonight!.
Fitted a set of single-sided SPD pedals to the Chartres - easy task with the right tool. Bought a lovely pedal spanner / crank extractor tool in the LBS. Also raised the saddle another 10mm.
Went for a test ride. Cockpit is now 95% where I need it to be, and still need to tweak cleat tension a bit. Rear gears now shift silky smooth across the whole cassette after re-tensioning the cable. No sign of any random shifting or a skippy chain. Well chuffed.
It's just so satisfying when things go right.
Yesterday, cleaned up the chains on the kids' bikes before their coaching session. Both chains (and cassettes) really need removing soaking in degreaser, a job for Monday perhaps.
Installed the newly delivered Charge Ladle on my wife's bike. Fingers crossed this one suits her better than the last two.
The front wheel was rattling a bit when braking, the bearings had somehow loosened, so gave the hub a good clean, fresh grease and readjusted. The rattle seems to have gone. While I had the bike in the stand I also put in new brake blocks in the front and gave the chain a good clean.
Had a strange grinding on Wednesday. Peddling back seam to stop it for a while. I used the other bike for the rest of the week. Thought it may be the BB which I only fitted recently. It turned out to be the rear wheel, a Fulcrum racing 7, which is not that old. The first thing I noticed was the freehub was loose/wobbly. So off it came. The bearings are pretty shot in the freehub and the ds of the wheel. I bought the Fulcrums as I thought the cartridge bearing would be better than the Shimano cup cones.
The spacer, 2nd left was seized and had to be persuaded off. I'll price the bearings, but may scrap the wheel if they are too expensive.
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