What Have You Fettled Today?

The weather turned a bit gash today so I finished off the T520 to T540 upgrade, indexed everything, sorted out the brakes and re wrapped the bars.

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That’s a full Shimano R7000 105 Groupset fitted. I’ve just got to wait for the weather to not be quite so rubbish, before I test ride it. I really don’t want to be shaking down a brand new set of brakes and cables if the weather is very wet.
 

Elybazza61

Veteran
Part one of a strip down and upgrade of my faithful old Triban 520 today.

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That’s a full R7000 105 Groupset.

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Nice to see it all in blue Shimano packaging:whistle:
 
Fair enough;see plenty of build kits sold as group sets.
To be fair, this was a mix. Some of it was obviously build kit ( plain brown boxes with barcodes) and it was made up with some bits in Shimano boxes ( front mech, crankset, chain and cassette ). That’s why it was at a bargain price.
 
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I’m on a test ride of the 520 that’s now a 540:laugh:. I’ve had to do some emergency fettling, as I seemed to have forgotten to tighten the right hand Brifter up. I didn’t know if it was just a bit loose, but it moved under braking so I thought I’d better check it. Nope, I’d completely neglected to even slightly tighten it:whistle:. So out with the multi tool, and tighten it up I did. It’s much better when it’s securely fastened.
 
I realised on the test ride that one of the shifters was about a couple of mm higher than the other one ( which wasn’t easy to spot on the stand ). This made for an uncomfortable ride towards the end, so I unwrapped the bar ( that’ll teach me not to test it before wrapping the bars up ) and pushed the offending shifter down to level with the other one. Now I’ve got a new issue, the callipers have a maximum drop of 51mm. The issue is that with the pads that were supplied, even when pitched and toed correctly, it looks like I need about another mm to be comfortably on the braking track. At the moment the top of the pads are just making contact with the tyre at the rim interface. I’m going to try some different pads, and if that doesn’t work, go for some long drop callipers.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Veteran
Location
London
. Now I’ve got a new issue, the callipers have a maximum drop of 51mm. The issue is that with the pads that were supplied, even when pitched and toed correctly, it looks like I need about another mm to be comfortably on the braking track. At the moment the top of the pads are just making contact with the tyre at the rim interface. I’m going to try some different pads, and if that doesn’t work, go for some long drop callipers.
You're going to be sorry you even started all this at the rate things are going. Personally, unless something is causing me a problem on a bike, I tend to leave things well alone all the time they are working satisfactorily.
 
Had a Roodog Bliss in today. It had been for an RTB service on the motor but was due a good service on the "regular bike" stuff

After a good fettling and cable/pads channges took it out for a 10-mile hilly test ride to confirm that the noises and glitches reported on the drive were resolved and I was well impressed. Impressed by the quick and good dealer backup from Roodog but mainly impressed that a reasonably priced folding e-bike pulled so well, especially a 20" wheel folder "pootler"

It's used by the customer as daily transport so gets heavy use instead of the usual folding bike "sunny weekends and holidays" and is holding up well

Wouldn't be my choice as it runs out of gears too quickly - hard to beat the max 15mph as cadence gets too high. But that aside was actually not bad at all
 
I’ve sorted the issue with the callipers now. A curved file to the groove in which the pad holders sit sorted the slight lack of drop out a treat. It’s now working perfectly. That R7000 groupset really is superb. If anyone is thinking of a mechanical group set upgrade, that really is great VFM, and quality, this would be a very good shout IMO.
 

palinurus

Legendary Member
Location
Watford
Been fixing a puncture on my sister-in-laws ratty old Universal folder, front wheel. Tyre was really perished- hence the front wheel puncture- so got a new one on order. Wheel sounded really rough so I thought maybe a new hub- but just cleaned it up, bit of grease, adjusted the cones nice and it runs pretty good. Wheel could do with a rebuild though.

Be all sorted when the tyre arrives, couldn't find a shop with a 20 x 1.75 in stock.
 
I suffered a sidewall cut in my tubeless road tyres yesterday. The Mavic sealant didn’t do the job, and the anchovies didn’t work either, which left me stranded, as I didn’t bring my tyre levers with me. However, when I did get home, I changed the sealant, for Stans Race sealant, and that did seal the hole adequately to hold 50-60 psi, which would have got me home yesterday. I also had a barrel adjuster jam solid, on the rear brake cable, ( Ultegra direct mount, chain stay mounted callipers) I think the problem was the super stiff brake cable I used, so I fitted a new barrel adjuster, and a slightly less stiff brake cable, all is well again.
 
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