What Have You Fettled Today?

[chriswoody]

So after yesterdays epic ride the Kona was a little mucky. So I've given it a proper deep clean today.

After a proper wash outside I took it into the Cellar and proceeded to polish the frame with a matt polish. I also took off the pedals and as suspected there was no grease at all on the threads, so I greased them up with copper grease and put them back on. The bike is festooned with bolts for attaching a variety of things, so each one was taken off and treated to a dab of copper grease as well and then I oiled the chain. A good few hours cleaning and fettling overall.

 

[Bad Machine]

Hunted down the needle head pliers, and went looking for trouble .

Marathon Plus 0 : Suffolk Thorns 1

 

[Shearwater Missile]

New KMC- X9 on the Claude Butler after 2550 miles. Not bad really considering the wet and filthy roads. Hoping the cassette will be OK.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Fitted new cleats to my summer cycling shoes as the engagement with pedal was showing the old ones to be worn.

 

[Cambram]

After hearing a rubbing noise from my new low cost magnetic indoor trainer I took it apart and tidied up some things and it runs okay now. Hard work though.

 

[Bad Machine]

Just an observation, but it might be much easier if you lower the saddle - you might not even need the stepladder ?

 

[Cambram]

The snag with that is I would need longer cranks.

 

[Vantage]

After hearing a rubbing noise from my new low cost magnetic indoor trainer I took it apart and tidied up some things and it runs okay now. Hard work though. View attachment 496049

View attachment 496050

Was that easy to do? I gave up using mine as there doesn't seem to be any real resistance and no difference in tweaking the adjuster knob.

 

[Cambram]

Hi Vantage
Fairly straight forward to take apart, fettle (love that word) and reassemble. I think I traced my chafing noise down to the roller bar not being square at the ends, allowing the spacer washers to sit at an angle and touch the case as it rotated.
To get at the bits I removed the plastic covers from each end by unscrewing the Phillips head screws and pulling off. Using an allen key in one of the grubscrews holding the roller, undid the nylock nuts each end. This allows you to take off the flywheel discs and the notched aluminium disc. Then removed the two grubscrews in the roller and pulled out the spindle. Unscrewed the 2 allen screws holding the (LH) bearing and pulled that off.

I trued the ends of the roller in my small lathe although it could have been done with a file. The roller is not solid but is an extrusion with, I think, 4 slots going through it. Once that was done I went through the other bits to do a bit of deburring and balanced the aluminium plate. They had taken more off one side than the other. Simple filing cured that.

After the clean-up I reassembled the bits making sure the spacing washers at each end were not jammed in. The 2 plastic end caps have little locating projections to make sure they go on the right way. To do a trial assembly I used plain M8 nuts in place of the nylock nuts to make it easier to do the trial fit and when happy re-fitted the nylocks.

The more complicated end houses the circular magnets. The notched aluminium disc rotates between the magnets and works by, I think, producing an eddy current braking effect as the speed increases. It warms up a bit (as do I) when in use. The plastic end holding the outer magnet has a "ramp" which allows the magnet to be pulled outwards to change the gap when a cable is pulled. I haven't made a "shifter" yet to do this operation. Using the adjusting screw to lightly push the roller onto the wheel I am using the bike gears to increase and reduce the load produced by the braking effect. It makes me puff a bit, but I am old and need to get fitter.

Some of these exercisers seem to have the cable adjuster supplied with the unit but being a bit of a cheapskate I went for the lowest price! Not a difficult job to fettle. It may be worthwhile to tidy it up and see if the resistance increases.

 

[EltonFrog]

Brake calipers, BB cups, derailleurs, quill stem from my Raleigh Scorpio have been cleaned, fettled and lubricate.

 

[Vantage]

Hi Vantage
Fairly straight forward to take apart, fettle (love that word) and reassemble. I think I traced my chafing noise down to the roller bar not being square at the ends, allowing the spacer washers to sit at an angle and touch the case as it rotated.
To get at the bits I removed the plastic covers from each end by unscrewing the Phillips head screws and pulling off. Using an allen key in one of the grubscrews holding the roller, undid the nylock nuts each end. This allows you to take off the flywheel discs and the notched aluminium disc. Then removed the two grubscrews in the roller and pulled out the spindle. Unscrewed the 2 allen screws holding the (LH) bearing and pulled that off.

I trued the ends of the roller in my small lathe although it could have been done with a file. The roller is not solid but is an extrusion with, I think, 4 slots going through it. Once that was done I went through the other bits to do a bit of deburring and balanced the aluminium plate. They had taken more off one side than the other. Simple filing cured that.

After the clean-up I reassembled the bits making sure the spacing washers at each end were not jammed in. The 2 plastic end caps have little locating projections to make sure they go on the right way. To do a trial assembly I used plain M8 nuts in place of the nylock nuts to make it easier to do the trial fit and when happy re-fitted the nylocks.

The more complicated end houses the circular magnets. The notched aluminium disc rotates between the magnets and works by, I think, producing an eddy current braking effect as the speed increases. It warms up a bit (as do I) when in use. The plastic end holding the outer magnet has a "ramp" which allows the magnet to be pulled outwards to change the gap when a cable is pulled. I haven't made a "shifter" yet to do this operation. Using the adjusting screw to lightly push the roller onto the wheel I am using the bike gears to increase and reduce the load produced by the braking effect. It makes me puff a bit, but I am old and need to get fitter.

Some of these exercisers seem to have the cable adjuster supplied with the unit but being a bit of a cheapskate I went for the lowest price! Not a difficult job to fettle. It may be worthwhile to tidy it up and see if the resistance increases.

Thankyou

 

[fossyant]

There will be a new chainring going on the FS MTB this week. Noticed the large ring (2x10) is starting to get shark toothed, but shifting is OK. Looked last night and two teeth were slightly bent - wearing thin. New ring ordered via ebay for £22 (NOS). Normal 'boxed' price is £50. Not bad for 3.5 years of filth.

Wouldn't want a fully bent tooth.

 

[Mike_P]

New bell on ebiked hybrid this evening, 1.8 degrees

 

[fossyant]

My new 'wash station' - spare Aldi bike hanger screwed onto the outside of the garage. Saves bending and or holding the bike. Genius.

 

[JhnBssll]

The Bianchi mtb doesnt shift very well between the two front rings. Theres some play in the mech which I suspect is the problem but I figured I would try and get it sat as close to the rings as possible first to rule that out. It's a real pain as the direct mount bolts are behind the chainring so the chainset has to come off before you adjust the mech It makes it a bit more of a challenge to adjust it, largely guesswork and trial and error

Anyway, I got it as close as I dare. If it still doesnt shift properly I'll bite the bullet and order a new one