What Have You Fettled Today?

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ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
As I have decided to use the old Omega next weekend, I thought I should sort out the slightly reluctant rear changes. Tried just fitting an inner, but the sheathing still gave high resistance. So I bit the bullet, unwrapped the top half of the bar and replaced the outer with new. Then had to tape the outer in place and re-wrap as invisibly as possible. I replaced the loop to the derailleur as well, pulled the cable tight and clamped it. It only required a minor tweak to get the gear change working like new.
I have converted my singlespeed bike to a 6-speed bike by adding a MTB rear derailleur. One of the things that I really like about those mechs is the way that the gear cable is routed. It only requires a short length of outer with a shallow curvature. See below...

Rear cable routeing 6-speed.jpg
 

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany

There's no way that I would ever contemplate returning to tubes. I've certainly had a few hassles on the Kona, due to my choice of sealant, but whilst it's been a steep learning curve, the benefits of tubeless certainly far outweigh any negatives.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
There's no way that I would ever contemplate returning to tubes. I've certainly had a few hassles on the Kona, due to my choice of sealant, but whilst it's been a steep learning curve, the benefits of tubeless certainly far outweigh any negatives.

I have two bikes with tubes & two tubeless. I'd say it is marginal, but tubeless gives a more comfortable ride and the occasional puncture is not usually a show-stopper - though, given how infrequent punctures are with decent tyres, I'm not in any huge hurry to swap the tubed ones to tubeless.
 
I'm currently waiting on some "liquid metal" epoxy so I can repair the handle on my kettle; my word but I live an exciting life.

It was just a screw that needed replacing. The thread on the old one had rusted through inside the handle and decided to strip itself.
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
On Tuesday I cleaned the Ridley Helium frameset I'd bought last week, where the seller / their child? had painted parts of the frame black. Using white spirit it went from this ...

Helium.jpg


... to this, with the seat tube / top tube / a seatstay cleaned from black paint plus other areas cleaned up:

PXL_20230516_174942676.jpg

I'll need to source some matching white and yellow paint for touch-ups, but otherwise it's ready for a build once it's been decided whether to replace my son's hillclimb or winter bikes with it / I have it as my winter bike.

Also progress has been made on the Viner Mitus, with a LH Ultegra shifter arriving that needed a new un-rusted clamp bolt/washer and a bit of cleaning. I'll still need to source a RH Ultegra shifter but the 105 version can do for now. It's got to 'cabling' point with new outer cables cut. Inner cables to do, then chain and bar tape so ignore the outer cables - which are there to help feed through the frame. Oh, and Raceblade Long mudguards to go on as the brackets are fitted already.

PXL_20230518_115135313.jpg


The Shimano RS20 wheels on there are a temporary set I've got on eBay that aren't selling at £10 with tyres :sad: so can stay for a bit. I've a new Superstar Components Pavé set to go on instead. At some point I'll get hold of a pair of Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR tyres as they've got matching lime green parts.

This needs to get a shift on now as I've got a Woodrup to restore plus the Helium above to build, so I'm hoping to finish it over the next week for a test-ride. Just in time for the end of summer :whistle:

Running a pure race bike isn't probably most people's idea of a 'winter bike', but my Raleigh SP Race has done the job decently for the past two winters until an issue between the frame and non-standard replacement fork became evident (that's sat on the turbo trainer until I source an original fork). That may have mostly become evident when I went for a gap between a barrier and a bus, which rapidly turned into no gap.
 
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Water must've got into the front hub bearings on the commuter after all. Last night it was spinning indefinitely in the drop outs with just a little grittyness but tonight it was only spinning about 5 revolutions before coming to a stop 🤯

As a quick fix I've borrowed my front winter wheel which needs a new tubeless valve. Tubed that and stuck a 23mm tyre on it (needed to clear the fork).

The lbs reopens after holidays at the weekend and I was going to drop my TT bike off so they can look at the worn drop outs (and hopefully fix), but I think I'll be dropping off the wheel too (Google suggests I need a bearings press for a Fulcrum Quattro .
 

Fredo76

Über Member
Location
Española, NM
In the past few whiles, I've bought, trued, and tyred a spare (clincher) rear wheel for Bella, same model name Vittoria tire as the sew-up rear. Fixed a front flat with sealant, and adjusted the headset.

I also removed the butterfly bars I'd been trying on Clem, and went back to the Soma Clarence bars, with grips. The butterfly bars gave me more hand positions, but I didn't like any of them nearly as well as more normal bars. The Clarence bars are the best for me of the half-dozen I've tried. Now I ought to sell the others, I suppose.

IMG_4115.JPG
 
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