What Have You Fettled Today?
- Thread starter threebikesmcginty
- Start date
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Tom B
Guru
- Location
- Lancashire
Did the same on Saturday - replaced the jockey wheels on my MTB - the lower one was almost completely round. Hardly surprising that shifting performance was sub-par.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Must be jockey wheel changing time, did mine at weekend. Still spinning fine and not particularly worn, but the lower one had burnt off the rubber seals off the cartridge bearing due to mud between it and the end caps/spacer (MTB)
Richard A Thackeray
Legendary Member
Out this morning, on the CGR, & noticed (or rather felt) that my riding position had changed slightly
On stopping & examining, the saddle-clamp section was twisting in the seat-pin, and the entire head was loose!
So, I cut it short, & headed home.
I washed it first (& Senior Managments Boardman), as mine was absolutely grotty (there's basically a new housing estate being built on my commute)
I contemplated taking the (same size) off 'Preston' (my blue '7005 Audax - as they call it), but that would have left me unable to ride that (to work) if I had a problem with the CGR
I knew I had another seat-pin somewhere
I found one in the shed, that was the 'bog-standard' one provided with my Gran Fondo (Ritchey WCS kit fitted, to it), but that was a 31.6(?)
Then, I saw it.
In the garage, there's a 1997 Raleigh Optima frame/forks hanging up...… with a seat-pin (which I thought was the right diameter)
Upon removing it, yes it was a 27.2, so even though it's polished finish (which I'd have liked throughout on the CGR, if the option was there, when I bought it)
It was cleaned up, the broken ones settings measured, & newbie (well...… 22 years old) fitted to correct set-back & height
Sorry, thought it was a better focus than this, but it was almost 16:30 when it was taken
The 'white-bit' is where I greased it
2 x lights reinstalled too
On stopping & examining, the saddle-clamp section was twisting in the seat-pin, and the entire head was loose!
So, I cut it short, & headed home.
I washed it first (& Senior Managments Boardman), as mine was absolutely grotty (there's basically a new housing estate being built on my commute)
I contemplated taking the (same size) off 'Preston' (my blue '7005 Audax - as they call it), but that would have left me unable to ride that (to work) if I had a problem with the CGR
I knew I had another seat-pin somewhere
I found one in the shed, that was the 'bog-standard' one provided with my Gran Fondo (Ritchey WCS kit fitted, to it), but that was a 31.6(?)
Then, I saw it.
In the garage, there's a 1997 Raleigh Optima frame/forks hanging up...… with a seat-pin (which I thought was the right diameter)
Upon removing it, yes it was a 27.2, so even though it's polished finish (which I'd have liked throughout on the CGR, if the option was there, when I bought it)
It was cleaned up, the broken ones settings measured, & newbie (well...… 22 years old) fitted to correct set-back & height
Sorry, thought it was a better focus than this, but it was almost 16:30 when it was taken
The 'white-bit' is where I greased it
2 x lights reinstalled too
Last edited:
Vantage
Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!
- Location
- Behind everyone else, Bolton
Washed the bike. I thought mudguards were supposed to stop crap forming all over the bike? Pah!
Washed the dog. She stank.
Took the vacuum cleaners to bits to clean them - filters etc.
Replaced the crappy guy lines on the new tent with the good ones from the old tent.
Put the slightly longer stem back on the bike...I'll discover next ride why I didn't like it in the first place...
Washed the dog. She stank.
Took the vacuum cleaners to bits to clean them - filters etc.
Replaced the crappy guy lines on the new tent with the good ones from the old tent.
Put the slightly longer stem back on the bike...I'll discover next ride why I didn't like it in the first place...
Shearwater Missile
Veteran
After buying a new Shimano square taper BB before Christmas I had it fitted today. Hand`s up that I did`nt do it. I had damaged the left hand crank release thread in trying to do the job myself so took it to George the bike man at Cotton. He managed to get the LH crank off with his crank remover, probably a better quality one than mine. The old BB was certainly noisy and rough although not much play in it. The new Shimano UN55 68 x 113mm feels like it turns in a tub of butter. It should have been changed about 3000 miles ago. Perhaps now I will cycle faster on my winter bike, not holding my breath I must add. Thanks George for sorting me out.
Shearwater Missile
Veteran
Playing with the stem lengths ?I have been there done that too. In fact I have had more changes of stem length on my bikes than I have had hot dinners or so it might seem ! You will discover on the next ride when you get the sore neck or back.Washed the bike. I thought mudguards were supposed to stop crap forming all over the bike? Pah!
Washed the dog. She stank.
Took the vacuum cleaners to bits to clean them - filters etc.
Replaced the crappy guy lines on the new tent with the good ones from the old tent.
Put the slightly longer stem back on the bike...I'll discover next ride why I didn't like it in the first place...
Flipping 
outside, thermometer might say 6 but with no sun and a cold breeze the road bike got a quick wipe and the still non ebiked hybrid pieces of cut inner tube glued where the motor clamps on to hopefully stop any creaks once it's refitted. The part I think the motor needs has arrived but missing a couple of bits so awaiting the arrival of those.
outside, thermometer might say 6 but with no sun and a cold breeze the road bike got a quick wipe and the still non ebiked hybrid pieces of cut inner tube glued where the motor clamps on to hopefully stop any creaks once it's refitted. The part I think the motor needs has arrived but missing a couple of bits so awaiting the arrival of those.Shearwater Missile
Veteran
After having the new BB fitted yesterday, today I have been re-indexing the gears. I had contacted Claude Butler of the size of BB that was used in a 2010 Roubaix and was told that they used both a 117mm and a 113mm, both of which are a 68mm shell. 117mm was way off and guessed that this have been used on a triple set up. I purchased the 113mm. The old one which I have now measured as you can`t read anything on it, actually measures 110mm so guess that is why the chain line is out slightly. It`d only be out by 1.5mm I assume. I must say that I noticed the difference on the ride today, especially on inclines. Did it make me faster though ? Umm no but my seat post had slipped about 10mm so that was something else to fettle.
I made up a measuring rod some time ago that makes getting the saddle height right easy. It is simply two pieces of wood, one long piece and a shorter one at right angles which just sits across the saddle. The bottom of the long piece sits on the pedal with the crank in line with the seatpost. Simples !
I made up a measuring rod some time ago that makes getting the saddle height right easy. It is simply two pieces of wood, one long piece and a shorter one at right angles which just sits across the saddle. The bottom of the long piece sits on the pedal with the crank in line with the seatpost. Simples !
Jenkins
Legendary Member
- Location
- Felixstowe
Well I did buy a new disc & pads, fitted them and guess what - more squealing and it seemed to get worse as they got more bedded in. Having tried everything to sort this out including undoing and retightening everything at the front end with no result, the only thing left was the brake mounting. So today I took off the 180mm disk fitted as standard (probably a bit of overkill to be honest) and replaced it with a 160mm disk and refitted the caliper without the spacer mount.
One four mile test ride later with the first part used to bed the disk in and...nothing! Not a sound so I can only guess that there was something in the original set-up with the spacer block & longer bolts that wasn't right.
roley poley
Veteran
- Location
- leeds
you may have changed its resonant frequency (ever run a wet finger round the rim of a brandy glass to make it sing?) by reducing disc size .Just an idea but for whatever reason no squeal is better for efficiency and street cred
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
A simple but important fettle this morning.
I removed and refitted the Suntour QLoc through axle on the front fork of my main bike.
This is important because the blasted thing rusts in place if left fitted for more than a month or two.
It came out OK, but needed a sharp tap on the end of an allen key I used as a drift.
Seems I just about got away with it.
Previously, it was a bike shop job - they have a heavy duty drift, having had several others rusted in.
Oddly, going tubeless is partly to blame.
When I was getting punctures, I was unwittingly keeping the axle free by removing it regularly.
Greasing it is the obvious option, but the fit is so snug the grease tends to wipe off as you push the axle through.
I'd get rid of it, but it's fork specific (no threads), and might be hub specific for all I know.
The cost/faff to benefit ratio of replacing it with a properly designed axle does not stack up.
I thought about trying to reduce its circumference with emery cloth or a cutting compound.
Might work, although it might also provide a key on the surface and make matters worse.
With no threads in the fork legs, it needs to be a close fit, making taking off too much a possibility.
Removing it occasionally is not so hard, but it's the type of little job that's easy to forget.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8IqJD34Ky0
I removed and refitted the Suntour QLoc through axle on the front fork of my main bike.
This is important because the blasted thing rusts in place if left fitted for more than a month or two.
It came out OK, but needed a sharp tap on the end of an allen key I used as a drift.
Seems I just about got away with it.
Previously, it was a bike shop job - they have a heavy duty drift, having had several others rusted in.
Oddly, going tubeless is partly to blame.
When I was getting punctures, I was unwittingly keeping the axle free by removing it regularly.
Greasing it is the obvious option, but the fit is so snug the grease tends to wipe off as you push the axle through.
I'd get rid of it, but it's fork specific (no threads), and might be hub specific for all I know.
The cost/faff to benefit ratio of replacing it with a properly designed axle does not stack up.
I thought about trying to reduce its circumference with emery cloth or a cutting compound.
Might work, although it might also provide a key on the surface and make matters worse.
With no threads in the fork legs, it needs to be a close fit, making taking off too much a possibility.
Removing it occasionally is not so hard, but it's the type of little job that's easy to forget.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8IqJD34Ky0
Vantage
Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!
- Location
- Behind everyone else, Bolton
Got the wheel stand out last night to true the front wheel. It was wobbling over 5mm side to side.
Must've done it when I sort of accidentally crashed into the side of someone's fence on the way to Acton Bridge and fell off. It piggin well hurt.
The wheels running purfeck again though
Must've done it when I sort of accidentally crashed into the side of someone's fence on the way to Acton Bridge and fell off. It piggin well hurt.
The wheels running purfeck again though
