Wheel bearing help please

[Stef 1]

I've recently been experinceing brake judder on my front wheel (disk brakes). I couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes - disk not warped at all, pads and clearance seem okay. So I dug deeper.

Front wheel is spinning freely, but perhaps not quite as freely / long as I'd like, although still feels relatively smooth when spun by hand (holding the axel with no weight or load on the wheel).

So I wondered if it could be to do with quick release. Took that apart - again all seemed okay. So had a peak inside the hub and saw the state on my bearings on the disk side of the wheel. On the far side, the grease was still clean, and the bearings shiny and smooth, but on the disk side everything was kind of copper coloured. On closer inspection, the bearings are badly pitted, as is the collar / smooth part of the bearing nut (sorry, don't know what to call it). I think the copper colour has come from where the surface has worn away. The inside of the hub doesn't look too fantastic either.

I've degreased and cleaned everything and taken pics. Click on pic for larger...

Knackered bearings

• Stef 1
• 28 Jun 2018

Hub

• Stef 1
• 28 Jun 2018

I've have a few questions...

1) Is this likely the cause of my disk brake 'judder'?
2) What is likey the reason for the badly worn bearings? Crud/grit getting in? Nut too tight? Too loose?
3) Should I just replace the bearings and nut? What's the hub / bearing nut called? Do they come in standard sizes?
4) Or do you think it's time for a new hub too (I'd probably get new wheels - they where stock with the bike 4 years ago - Alex XD-Lite rims, shimano hub so not expensive.... upgrade?).
5) If I put back together and ride for a day or two nothing will explode or kill me right?


Many thanks for any help - I appreciate it!

 

[gazza1286]

The internal race(cup) on the last photo looks a bit pitted too. That you can't fix - unless some fine emery cloth can smooth it out. The cones (you called them nuts) can be easily replaced and look badly worn. Your LBS should be able to help. If the hub is shimano you could source the cones online. New ball bearings are needed too. You've clearly not been looking after the bearings and I suspect the other wheel may be just as bad. You might be lucky but you may need to get some new wheels.
I replaced the cones and freehub on my Alexrims rear for £20 recently but it took a lot of effort to track the parts down. You're not risking anything by putting it all back together with fresh grease. It's going to be better than before and will last until you decide what to do.

 

[I like Skol]

Fresh grease, new balls and leave a slight amount of play when setting up the bearings. If you do this just right the play should just disappear when you tighten the quick release. This ensures minimal pressure on the now rough bearing tracks.

 

[Stef 1]

Hi - thanks for your replyies Yep, lesson learned. I feel bad for my bike.
I did service the bearings a couple of years ago - far too long ago, I now know. I'm learning though.

The internal race is nearly as pitted as the cone (thanks, I now know what thay're called). Having a feel around inside with my little finger it's not particualrly smooth in there. The other side looks absolutely fine though (bearings, race and cone).

I temporarily greased and put back together over lunch – now I'm aware of it, it feels terrible. Either binds badly or is far too loose. Do you really think it's salvagable with new cones and balls?

I'll check the rear wheel bearings tonight and if that's bad too I'm thinking possibly getting new wheels. Re-building a wheel from hubs is probably beyond me (sounds like a lot of hassle) and I don't like the idea of those bearings grinding away.

Anything particualr I need to be aware of if choosing new wheels? as I can't get the same model anymore.
Obviously hubs need to work with my disks, but other than that?

In terms of looking after bearings, as a rule of thumb, how often should they be checked and serviced?

Cheers

 

[fossala]

Best way to check pitting is run a ball point pen over it.

 

[I like Skol]

They will never be perfect but I have had some like that run for many, many hundreds of miles without getting any worse once set-up the way I described.

 

[raleighnut]

^^^^^^^ Wot e sed

 

[Stef 1]

on it - thanks for the advice
Found that SJS cycles sell cone and bearings... ordered.

Checked back bearings and cones etc. Seem okay. Ordered bearings too just incase.

Fingers crossed!

Now to catch up on the work I should've been doing.

thanks

 

[Stef 1]

Have to admint I have used a power washer in thr past, but only 2 or 3 times.... and always from a distance, keeping away from bearings or anything that moves! Usually sponge and bucket of soapy water.

Bike probably has anywhere between 6000 - 8000 miles on it, so I guess without servicing the bearings they were probably due. Just another thing to keep an eye on I guess. The missus already 'tuts' as it is when I spend half a saturday giving it a good going over!

 

[I like Skol]

IME cup and cone bearings are either too tight or just right when new, but then you tighten the QR which makes them ball crushingly tight or just plain too tight! Always worth checking this and backing them off a bit on a new bike.

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Something else that can cause juddering when applying the front brake is play in the headset bearing.

To check for this, apply the front brake with the bike stationary and rock the bike backwards and forwards. If you have any play in the headset it will be discernible when you do this.

Graham

 

[Stef 1]

Something else that can cause juddering when applying the front brake is play in the headset bearing.

To check for this, apply the front brake with the bike stationary and rock the bike backwards and forwards. If you have any play in the headset it will be discernible when you do this.

Graham

Cheers for that - will check that too. Currently stolen the front wheel from my wifes bike whilst I wait for bearing bits to arrive so can test that tomorrow... indeed as it's a completely different wheel and bearings if theres still judder I know it wasn't from my bearings...

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Something else that can cause juddering when applying the front brake is play in the headset bearing.

To check for this, apply the front brake with the bike stationary and rock the bike backwards and forwards. If you have any play in the headset it will be discernible when you do this.

Graham

.......but if you have front suspension forks it is a bit harder to tell. (Mentioned because you have disc brakes which are not common on road bikes and far less so 4 years ago)

 

[Stef 1]

Thanks for the thought, everything helps. no suspension though. 2014 Genesis Coix De Fer, currently with roady tires, at least whilst the weather is fine . I’ll learn tomorrow if it’s either wheel or headset... if it’s neither then there can’t be many options left!

 

[raleighnut]

I don't think it's a jetwash causing the grease to dissipate, more likely to be heat from the disc which could also explain the juddering (if you hold the brakes on after stopping with a hot disc it'll deposit pad material onto the disc surface)