'Really relaxed' geometry road/sportive bike

[Paulq]

I am gonna have another bash at a road oriented bike after several years riding hybrids. The reason is that, as a result of a rugby (League not Union - RU is for pansies ) injury, I crushed the disc between the C5/C6 vertebrae in my cervical spine some years ago. The movement on my neck day to day is ok but on bad days movement to the right is restricted. (Cue torrents of abuse from RU players.....only kidding ladies )

However the major issue I have is the craning of my neck if I am too hunched over and need to look ahead. As looking ahead is recommended when cycling I need something that is as upright as possible, whilst accepting I'm not gonna get a sit up and beg on a road bike.

I've deduced that maybe a sportive type bike may be better than a more aggressive one and have looked at:

Cannondale Synapse (Claris)
Specialized Roubaix
Merida Ride (these seem hard to get hold of....)
Giant Defy

Does anyone have a similar issue than mine who can speak from experience about which types of bike they manage to adapt themselves to? I also have a couple of more questions:

i am a gnat's nodger over 5'11" and typically have been recommended 56cm frames. Some of these have exacerbated the problem in the past but, accepting that it needs setting up properly, if I wanted to be more upright would a 54cm or 58 cm be likely to help?

The obvious choice would be a 54 as a 58 'may be' too stretched out but please bear in mind the specific nature of my injury - it's when my neck is having to be forced upwards/backwards to see ahead. Imagine the breast stroke when you are swimming - that position for your neck. A 54 may force my neck into a more upright position??

Final one - is there anywhere in the NW that can do a bike optimisation BEFORE you buy a bike? So that I would know exactly what sizings I am looking for? Alternatively I hear that pedal precision in Manchester are very good in right sizing/setting up your bike - anyone dealt with them.

Sorry it's so specific but I thought I'd contribute more than another 'what bike' question. :-)

Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeW-71]

I think you're right that a Sportive/Endurance geometry is going to be what you need, so you're looking at the right kind of bikes. They will be more upright than a race geometry bike, so definately see if you can get a test ride.

Always get the correct size frame. If you still need to be a bit more upright, you can flip the stem to bring the bars higher still. You can also fit a shorter stem if you still had too much reach, often just 10mm either way can make all the difference.

My neck is not 100% following a car accident in '03 and I have two fused vertebrae in there (happened naturally, don't know the cause of that one). Driving for more than an hour gives me a stiff painful neck, but on the bike it's OK for much longer.

EDIT: also look at some the "Adventure" bikes that are essentially CX bikes, such as the Giant Revolt. It's a bit more upright than my Defy, especially if you shortened and flipped the stem on it.

 

[vickster]

Go get some decent test rides at Evans, they let you take the bikes out for a proper ride. As long as you have the right size frame, you can get everything properly fitted later

Or find a performance type LBS that will put bikes on a turbo in the shop and get their fitter to take a look at you, at least to confirm frame size

Dolan are meant to be really thorough in their store which is up in that part of the world

 

[Cyclist33]

Size wise you would want a 56, getting a 54 would be too small I think. For one thing the head tube lengths change with frame size and on a 54 you lose a couple of cm height up front as a result.

On a 56 you can foreshore the reach by eg asking them to fit a 1cm shorter stem and/or a seatpost that has zero setback, ie the centre of the saddle is in line with the centre line of the post.

Note, not all brands size by the crossbar effective length, some go by the length of the seat tube, so just be aware that "56" on some brands would be enormous.

Of the listed bikes the specialised has the tallest front end I think.

Another option might be the cannondale quick series, the one I had Was a "large" but very short and upright but road-fast.

Another option might be the jamis quest series, my 56 is quite short on the reach and being steel it cossets you a bit.

I'm the same height as you BTW.

Finally, if you're anywhere near Warrington you're welcome to come and test my jamis quest and indeed also my giant Defy if you want to get a feel for sizing.

 

[Cyclist33]

Ps, I have my Defy with a shorter stem and I have my quest with an in-line seatpost so you'd be able to have a play with these concepts.

 

[MichaelW2]

Look at the geometry charts for top tube length.
Seat-tube angle is usually pretty standard so reach is determined by TT.

Also consider a recumbent.

 

[outlash]

EDIT: also look at some the "Adventure" bikes that are essentially CX bikes, such as the Giant Revolt. It's a bit more upright than my Defy, especially if you shortened and flipped the stem on it.

+1, my Cannondale CAADX is really quite upright. I believe a lot of CX bikes are due to different handling needs off road. Still make decent road bikes though .

 

[Paulq]

Size wise you would want a 56, getting a 54 would be too small I think. For one thing the head tube lengths change with frame size and on a 54 you lose a couple of cm height up front as a result.

On a 56 you can foreshore the reach by eg asking them to fit a 1cm shorter stem and/or a seatpost that has zero setback, ie the centre of the saddle is in line with the centre line of the post.

Note, not all brands size by the crossbar effective length, some go by the length of the seat tube, so just be aware that "56" on some brands would be enormous.

Of the listed bikes the specialised has the tallest front end I think.

Another option might be the cannondale quick series, the one I had Was a "large" but very short and upright but road-fast.

Another option might be the jamis quest series, my 56 is quite short on the reach and being steel it cossets you a bit.

I'm the same height as you BTW.

Finally, if you're anywhere near Warrington you're welcome to come and test my jamis quest and indeed also my giant Defy if you want to get a feel for sizing.

I am actually not too far away so may take you up on that and it's really good of you to offer.

Are the Jamis bikes not quite heavy?

 

[vickster]

Look at head tube height too, my pave is really tall at the front

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-pearson-pave-10-38821/

 

[John the Monkey]

Ask the shop to set the bike up with enough spacers under the stem for you to tweak the position too.

 

[Paulq]

Ask the shop to set the bike up with enough spacers under the stem for you to tweak the position too.

Ok so, hypothetical question. As I (mischievously) have my eye on a specific bike that is more roady and probably more aggressive, is there a way that the shop can set that up to be 'relaxed and upright'.

I'm not gonna buy it unless it's right for me but it doesn't really fit the 'relaxed' criteria on paper.

 

[Cyclist33]

Look at head tube height too, my pave is really tall at the front

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-pearson-pave-10-38821/

Covered that point above already.

 

[Cyclist33]

I am actually not too far away so may take you up on that and it's really good of you to offer.

Are the Jamis bikes not quite heavy?

No problemo, you may as well, call it free research.

Depends what constitutes heavy in your mind really. My jamis is 9 kg, that's the quest elite. I guess the cheaper models would be heavier but many, many people get far too hung up on a few grams here and there.

 

[John the Monkey]

Ok so, hypothetical question. As I (mischievously) have my eye on a specific bike that is more roady and probably more aggressive, is there a way that the shop can set that up to be 'relaxed and upright'.

I'm not gonna buy it unless it's right for me but it doesn't really fit the 'relaxed' criteria on paper.

How it feels is the most important thing - and I guess you could argue that the choice you're considering allows more flexibility should your condition improve (you know better than us how likely that is).

My experience is mostly of the Defy's predecessor (the Giant SCR series, specifically the SCR2). I had the shop set that up initially *very* upright (bar tops level with the saddle nose). At the peak of my fitness, such as it was, I was able to get the position I wanted by putting a 10mm longer stem at the lowest position possible. I'm going back to the original stem length, possibly slightly higher, as a couple of lazy winters catch up with me

You know your condition better than me, or the other posters, but I'd suggest starting with a bike that suits you *now*. If your condition improves significantly, spend a little (£10 - £20, maybe) on a longer stem, or move the bike on and go racier. I think your "racy" bike might involve too many compromises for little benefit, personally, if you're not in a place where you're close to the geometry suiting you *now*.

 

[vickster]

Ok so, hypothetical question. As I (mischievously) have my eye on a specific bike that is more roady and probably more aggressive, is there a way that the shop can set that up to be 'relaxed and upright'.

I'm not gonna buy it unless it's right for me but it doesn't really fit the 'relaxed' criteria on paper.

If there's enough space on the steerer tube. You need to look at head tube height. What bike is it?