What have you bought for the bike today ?

[C R]

Thanks. It won't shift though. Anti clockwise as you look at it with an Allan key with full chat doesn't do anything, ummhh

It may need some umph, some places seem to like overtightening these things.

 

[vickster]

And when you do get it undone, apply some copper grease to the thread to avoid it seizing

 

[Mattk50]

It may need some umph, some places seem to like overtightening these things.

Anti clockwise as you look up at it right?

 

[Mattk50]

try the other way?how old is the bike?
what are the cable ties for?

Bike is about 5 years old now I guess. I used cable ties to attach the saddle bag. I think the cables that can with it were useless from memory. You cant see them once the saddle bag is on fortunately.

 

[Drago]

However after 5 mins both ways I forgot about the band and it kept me very warm whilst not feeling bulky under the helmet. It's won me over.

If there's one thing worse than a moist helmet, it's a bulky moist helmet.

 

[Pale Rider]

Thanks. It won't shift though. Anti clockwise as you look at it with an Allan key with full chat doesn't do anything, ummhh

Giving it full grunt will risk twisting the head off the bolt.

The saddle looks fairly level.

You might like to consider how desperate you are to move it.

 

[Mattk50]

Giving it full grunt will risk twisting the head off the bolt.

The saddle looks fairly level.

You might like to consider how desperate you are to move it.

I did wonder that, I used a claw hammer to hit the allan key gently to no avail, creaked a bit. I thought I'd try and tilt the saddle as I keep sliding down it during turbo training and wondering if a slight tilt would help. Apologies for taking this thread off topic.

 

[carlosfandangus]

try taking the seat post out with the saddle attached, put on the bench/floor upside down and add penetrating oil to the thread, leave overnight or longer and attack again, be careful of taking the head off like pale rider said, if you do though this will allow it to come apart and give you better access to the threaded plate at the top under the saddle, you will need a new bolt, if this happens you can then apply some heat to the threaded top plate and hopefully break the seal if corroded, it may come undone with Molegrips and a vice once the pressure is off though

 

[Mattk50]

try taking the seat post out with the saddle attached, put on the bench/floor upside down and add penetrating oil to the thread, leave overnight or longer and attack again, be careful of taking the head off like pale rider said, if you do though this will allow it to come apart and give you better access to the threaded plate at the top under the saddle, you will need a new bolt, if this happens you can then apply some heat to the threaded top plate and hopefully break the seal if corroded, it may come undone with Molegrips and a vice once the pressure is off though

Thanks. I'll do it after the training session this morning that I'm still not getting around to.

 

[Justinitus]

try taking the seat post out with the saddle attached, put on the bench/floor upside down and add penetrating oil to the thread, leave overnight or longer and attack again, be careful of taking the head off like pale rider said, if you do though this will allow it to come apart and give you better access to the threaded plate at the top under the saddle, you will need a new bolt, if this happens you can then apply some heat to the threaded top plate and hopefully break the seal if corroded, it may come undone with Molegrips and a vice once the pressure is off though

Put a piece of tape around the seatpost where it enters the frame before removing it - this will mark the exact same saddle height for when you put it back in.

 

[ExpatTyke]

I've bought a set of red Koolstop brake pads for the Peugeot AO8. I rode it to work on what was supposed to be a dry day on Thursday - of course it rained on the way home. Steel rims, Mafac brakes with fibre pads, and heavy rain on busy roads isn't a good mix.

 

[Pale Rider]

I did wonder that, I used a claw hammer to hit the allan key gently to no avail, creaked a bit. I thought I'd try and tilt the saddle as I keep sliding down it during turbo training and wondering if a slight tilt would help. Apologies for taking this thread off topic.

Hitting the key with a hammer won't help because it will tend to spring back.

Constant firm pressure with your hand is what's required.

 

[C R]

Anti clockwise as you look up at it right?

That's right. Seat out and either penetrating oil or heat are likely to help. For heating use boiling water, as direct flame from a blow torch is likely to damage the finish.

Once you manage to do your adjustments make sure you put copper grease on the new bolt as per @vickster's advice.

 

[Pale Rider]

New track pump for me this morning.

I've thought for a while my Halfords cheapie was coming to the end of its life - most of the stroke pumped no air at all.

This was confirmed with my recent purchase of the tubeless tyres Blaster compressed air tank.

My pump would only punch about 65psi into it, which was only just enough.

So I took the Blaster back to Edinburgh Bicycles to try a new track pump on it.

A £20 Giant one put 100psi in the Blaster fairly easily, and would have done more had I wanted to.

Job's a good 'un.

The pump also has a bigger pressure gauge which I will find easier to read.

Pleased for the money - I was expecting to pay nearer thirty or forty quid.

https://www.edinburghbicycle.com/giant-control-tower-3-track-pump-unique-69077

 

[Blue Hills]

The trackpump i use (won't go into detail on the £60+ Spesh think I bought - never again) came from Edinburgh bike-coop - their branding of a giyo. Doesn't come apart but I settled for it as it was only £15.
Does yours come apart for servicing?
These days unless uber cheap I'd only buy a track or bike pump that could be taken apart for o-ring greasing - and preferably had spare parts available.
Topeak tend to be good for this.