What Have You Fettled Today?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Finally got round to upgrading the Trek today.

Removed the "old" Tiagra shifters and RD (I say old, they've done less than 1000mi and are in near mint condition) and put on a set of R7000 shifters I had in a cupboard and the new R7000 rear derailleur. Took the 10sp cassette off the wheel and was glad I'd ordered the 11sp cassette which fits on a 10sp freehub (it's 11-34 so nice wide range for climbing hills, and it looks like I'll be lending it to my Dad fairly often and he's in his 70s so the extra range will be good for him too).

I'm leaving the Tiagra crankset and front derailleur in place - they are perfectly fine with the new 105 for now - ultimately I will upgrade them too and then I'll likely sell the complete Tiagra groupset to recover some costs.

New inner cables for the brakes and gears too - a good thing too as the old cables were showing signs of corrosion as the previous owner had kept it in a barn for two years. Only minor problem was the nipple for the right shifter got stuck and then the ratchet wouldn't engage for the upshift or downshift. Took a bit to get the cable out and then cycled the levers both directions a few times to get it to reset. Annoying as I'd already cinched the bolt at the derailleur and I had to undo it and pull the cable out, lesson learnt - check the action works beforehand.

Re-used the bar tape as it was in good condition, and although I have new bar tape ready to go on, I'll leave it for now.

Overall not too bad a setup - I'll have to check the indexing on a ride tomorrow to make sure it's ok, but seems to shift no problem so far.

Weight has dropped to 9.8kg including pedals and all the mounts etc on the bike, which for an alloy 62cm frame I'm very happy with. Crankset upgrade should drop another couple hundred grams and I've got new tires coming tomorrow which should be a couple hundred grams lighter too. Should offset the mudguards nicely when I get to put them on.
 
After suffering for a while, decent brakes for the folder.

Myself and Lady J are going down to the South coast in a couple of weeks. We take folding bikes with us, as they are easy to fit in the Mini and can be kept secure there, when hotels etc. do not have anywhere for storage.

Had bought a cheap chinese folder from Fleabay for me and a Apollo Tuck for her. I realised the error of my thinking when the cheapie Chinese one's BB appeared to be made of butter! I bought a folding frame from Edinburgh Cycles. Some proper 20" wheels and then with spares from the shed, built the folding bitsa below

Folder.jpg


Donors were an old mountain bike for the rear derailleur, 9 speed cassette and sti trigger, saddle, brake levers, handlebars and stem. Crank and BB just kicking around. The brakes, folding stem and tyres are from the Chinese folder. Had to buy the wheels and seatpost, seatpost clamp to fit the frame.

Brakes were apalling, so took the plunge and got a very good deal on a set of Deore v brakes.

brakes.jpg


Now braking is much better.

Bike rides well. Will be cycling round Bournemouth, Poole and surrounding areas in the next few weeks.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Cleaned the Kinesis - it was a bit grim following a trip down a freshly chipsealed road a couple of weeks ago complete with semi liquid tar and sunday's trip over a sheep crap covered cycleway.

Also swapped the saddle on the Trek for the Fabric saddle which arrived today and took it for a quick spin around the block to check the indexing, nearly there but a bit off in the higher range. Am planning on a longer ride tomorrow so I may take that over the Kinesis and dial it in properly.

Also took a spare wheelset out of the loft and gave it a thorough clean in anticipation of pressing it into service next week as part of winterising the Trek.
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
MTB was in a right state, having been borrowed by youngest several times featuring many crashes, then ridden through thick mud by me thrice this week. All round clean, then spent ages trying to get the gears to run without rubbing on front derailleur. Eventually realised it was out of alignment and a minor rotation sorted it.

Also took the pads out just to take a look so I can source spares, having never changed them. They don't look very worn, but how do you judge this on disc pads? I've no idea.

New chain cleaning method of spraying wd40 liberally then very close pressure wash of the chain in situ worked a treat :okay:. I expect someone will be along shortly telling me I need an ultrasonic bath or somesuch to do it properly.

Next the posh road bike. Now up to near 2000 miles so treated it to a new chain and all round clean after a wet ride last weekend. Had been suffering rumbling in bottom gear, which a tweak of the B screw remedied.

Finally tightened the tandem timing chain which looks a little saggy. Rotating the eccentric BB isn't the easiest, even though its free in the shell, but got there in the end.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Photo Winner
Location
Inside my skull
Bolts on right shoe cleat were loose this morning. So loosened moved cleat back in place, then tightened up again. Reminded me I haven’t been doing loose bolt checks every 4 weeks or so.
 

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
After 5 years of dedicated service I have given up fighting and fettled new brake pads* and fresh DOT5.1 into my rival hydro brakes :laugh:

Someone remind me how much trouble disc brakes are? :tongue:

*that weren't needed just yet
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
They don't look very worn, but how do you judge this on disc pads? I've no idea.

The only way is to assess the depth of the friction material.

Not so easy given there's only a millimetre or two in it.

Comparing the new pads with the old ones should give you a good idea.
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Swapped over the modern Selle Italia SLR saddle (which was always temporary) for a correct leather San Marco Concor, took a bit of adjustment (I’ve dropped the nose a bit since taking the photos) but it’s very comfortable and looks period correct

544614


544615


544616


544617


I also got the little Elvish down pumped up the tyres and a spin around the close, rides really well, it’s a shame I’m not 10 again!

544618
 
Last edited:

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Replaced both saddle clamp bolts on the MTB. Had a little creaking on a ride at weekend, tightened a bolt and it 'slipped' - it had threadded. Fortunately, managed to undo it and retighten to continue the ride. Inspected bolt and it's not too bad, but just not worth the risk of it failing mid ride, so replaced both bolts (to match - can't have mis matched fastenings on a bike).
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
Applied a tubeless specific patch to the inside of my three week old tubeless tyre which had obviously punctured. Sealant held at low pressure to get home but not when I blew it up with the track pump.

Then, hooray, I managed to get the thing back on!!!!!! Left it to soak in boiling hot soapy water for ten minutes pre fitting, still a devil of a job to get on but easier than my maiden attempt.

Got the tyre to "pop" with the track pump, will leave it overnight to see if still inflated then add sealant through valve tomorrow.

Each to their own, but every single thing I read about tubeless makes me want to avoid it like the plague!
 

pawl

Legendary Member
Each to their own, but every single thing I read about tubeless makes me want to avoid it like the plague!



Would agree with that For an old fossil like me cycling maintenance is getting al little to complicated .l don’t want disc brakes or cables that disappear into the frame tubes .If I was in the market for new bike I would struggle Some nob head looked at my Planetx carbon and said fancy buying a bike with exposed cables.
 
Top Bottom