I’d forgotten that bit
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bobinski
Legendary Member
- Location
- Tulse Hill
Lots of teasing Today about the new extension to Watopia. Also Zwift head honcho suggesting an hour long mountain ride this winter.
I like the sound of the hour long climb, I reckon if I try hard enough I could make it last longer
Breedon
Legendary Member
- Location
- Long Eaton, Nottingham
About time they could bring out new challenges for it
zwiftblog indicates there's already a strava segment for the new road, but I don't think it's available in the game yet.
As I noted a little while ago, it connects on the reverse epic kom. According to the strava segment, it's an 8 mile loop with ~1k of elevation work. Given its connection point, it'd make a nice addition to the reverse epic KOM. ie, start the reverse epic KOM, hit the new loop, finish the epic KOM, then climb up to the tower. I think it'd weigh in at close to 3k ft of elevation work without having to do all the flats that we have to do now for 3-sisters to get that much elevation work.
https://www.strava.com/segments/16334260
It's not available publicly yet. All you can see is the "road construction" on the right hand side as you're going up the reverse epic kom.
I'd bet it's made available at the next update. I'm guessing Thu. If we get an update prior to then I'll "volunteer" to use the world hack to see if the new road is open in watopia.
Quick question for you clever people ..... if, on Zwift, one was to use a trainer like the Pro for resistance only, but a power meter for accurate power, how would the speed be derived? Based on the speed of the rear wheel (plus any virtual 'blue' speeding) or would it be derived in Zwift from the power numbers of the power meter in which case the wheel speed is ignored?
For power meters, what are the most reasonably priced options for a mechanical numpty like me?
For power meters, what are the most reasonably priced options for a mechanical numpty like me?
Breedon
Legendary Member
- Location
- Long Eaton, Nottingham
Im not sure about the speed question, but regarding a power meter you could use the pedal based one the be pros seem to have good reviews dc rainmaker has loads of reviews regarding power meters, im currently looking into quarq (if thats how you spell it), @theboxers uses garmin vectors i belive
BurningLegs
Veteran
I always assumed Zwift would always use power to calculate speed, even from a Smart trainer.
Isn’t speed only relevant when a speed sensor is used without a power reading from either a smart turbo or power meter??
Isn’t speed only relevant when a speed sensor is used without a power reading from either a smart turbo or power meter??
BurningLegs
Veteran
In fact the more I think about it, the more convinced I am. A turbo can’t possibly give a reliable reading of speed because it depends on the virtual terrain, aero, and even equipment choice in the game. Any speed data from a smart turbo is useless so I reckon it’s disregarded by Zwift which just takes the power data and calculates speed. The exception would obviously be when using a dumb trainer and external speed sensor, then the calculation is the other way round (hence zPower).
Hi Carl read this https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www....ower-meters-buyers-guide2016-edition.html/amp
I think Boxer's and LBHIFI use power meters and Bkool as a resistance unit.
This pulled from Zwift website
CLASSIC TRAINERS
Classic trainers typically don't have any electronics, so you'll need a speed and cadence sensor or a power meter to connect to Zwift. Some manufacturers offer an optional sensor that broadcasts power (watts) directly to Zwift.
When using a speed and cadence sensor, Zwift translates speed from the trainer into watts using a virtual power curve. We've tested all the supported trainers in the Zwift HQ lab to calculate the watts required for speed-based power. Some trainers are 'zPower' enabled. zPower is Zwift's own special virtual power curve that accounts for wattage spikes from sudden acceleration to provide a more responsive experience than a linear virtual power curve
So in the absence of a power meter, then Zwift require a speed and cadence sensor. It implies that it calculates speed when it has power reading source.
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uclown2002
Guru
- Location
- Harrogate
If you choose a power meter as the power source from the pairing screen then wheel speed is irrelevant.
Stages is probably cheapest but only reads left crank power and doubles it; and is regarded as one of the most inaccurate. Assioma Duo gets good reviews and is a little cheaper than Powertap P1 set which is probably one of the most accurate. Both can easily be moved onto different bikes. I've had both rate them highly. Garmin Vectors 1 and 2 need a bit of faffing around attaching pods and are not as easily transferable. Not sure about Vector 3s which I'm not sure have been released yet. Many other options but more expensive.
uclown2002
Guru
- Location
- Harrogate
Do you have anymore information on that? Is there a blog post or something with details of what they're planning/developing?
Perhaps I will just wait it out
I'm afraid not. Mr ZP keeps things close to his chest and is not to be hurried!
Like BurningLegs says, speed must be calculated using power if that is available. In order to have all riders behave similar, they have to use the same algorithme, and why not use an algorithme that has power as the only variable.
As for cheap power meters, I guess the ones I own are among the cheapest. The 4iiii left side only power meter is the cheapest i own, but the price varies since it's delivered mounted on a crank arm, and I've got cheap Shimano 105 on my commuter.
I also got dual side BePro pedals on my TT bike, but a left side solution is almost as cheap as the 4iiii.
I like the 4iiii because I can use my Speedplay pedals, but the BePro's are more versatile since they can by mounted on any bike.
The thing about left side only power meters is that you need to know your power balance to get the best precision. E.g. for me having left/right balance at 48.5/51.5, I would actually put out 257.5 watt when it reads 250 watt.
But regardless the precision, the most important thing is that it's consistant. You know that if you get an increase of FTP is because you got fitter, and not because of some software glitch.
